October 17, 2013 Scavi Tour under St. Peter’s Basilica and Climbing the Cupola

 

We were up at the crack of dawn and ready to roll by 8 am for our appointment at the Vatican to tour the necropolis under St. Peter’s Basilica.   We arrived right on time at 9 am; the check in was a bit different than the last time but everything went well.   We were with an English speaking group lead by an Italian woman guide who had a good command of the English Language.   The tour takes about an hour and initially goes through several ancient burial cemeteries that were uncovered in the late 1940’s and 50’s during an excavation ordered by the Pope to determine the exact location of St. Peter’s Tomb.

By the time we were finished we were shown St. Peter’s Tomb, boxes with his bones and ended in the crypt area under the church where Pope’s are buried.  In the past the tour would end at the very popular tomb of John Paul II; but since his beautification in 2011, his tomb was moved upstairs in the Basilica next to Michelangelo’s Pieta.  He will be named a saint in the spring of 2014.

We saw that the line was short so we immediately started our climb of the Cupola (Dome) over St. Peter’s Basilica.   We paid the fee for the elevator ride to the roof top; once there we walked around the inside of the dome over the altar where we could see the people far below in the church while we were getting a much closer view of the inside of the dome and the beautiful mosaics. 

Bonnie elected to stay on the roof but Jane, Mary and I started the climb to the top that winds inside of the double walls.  Tall people have problems as the space is narrow and bends as you’ll see in the photos.  It is 323 step climb on various types of stairs including one little one that is like a corkscrew with only a long rope to hold on to as you climbed round and round.  The views are said to be the best in Rome.  Well worth the effort.

All too soon we were back down and exited right into St. Peter’s Basilica where we went to visit John Paul II’s tomb again before saying goodbye to Bonnie and Jane.   They have not seen the inside of the church and will probably spend hours there today.  Mary and I walked back to the Metro and hopped the train for a ride to San Giovanni in Laterano to visit the Pope’s Cathedral.  We also saw some good examples of the old Roman walls and visited a small museum about the liberation of Rome during WW II.     

We enjoyed a late lunch of pizza at the Caffe San Clemente during our walk down towards the Coliseum where we looked at everything; took lots of photos and then decided not to go inside.  We walked the Appian Road stretch in front of the Coliseum before jumping back on the Metro for our trip back to Termini Station and home. 

We’d planned to go out again to visit some churches in the area but ended our day with washing our hair and finally opening that bottle of wine from Sorrento to share with friends at the Hostel.  One couple was distraught when they returned; the husband’s wallet had been stolen during their ride on the Metro.  They were calling the USA to report the loss of credit cards, etc.  You can never be too careful when traveling.  The rule of the road is never to carry everything in one place and best to put the really important things in a bag around your neck! 

The girls have sent a text and are still out exploring as I write this email.  We’re expecting a large demonstration tomorrow and the shutdown of transportation. It should be an interesting day!

Hope you enjoy the slide show: 

October 16, 2013 The Wednesday Audience With The Pope

Since Mary and I have been to the audience before and have had front row seats; we elected to get some extra sleep this morning and go just before it starts.   Wrong move; the place was packed solid and we had to worm our way in just to get a decent place to stand and watch a monitor.   Photos were taken with my camera held as high over my head as my arms would reach.  Out of about fifty photos

I did manage to take a few that were not of people’s heads and/or the sky or tops of buildings.

The system has changed in that where they used to have several different colored tickets indicating the section that you were allowed to find seats; there are only two colors:  Red allows you to be up on the stage (there are very few of these) and brown which allows you into the seating area period.  So there are about six thousand of the brown tickets!  Much more democratic than before or shall we say equal opportunity!  

But, we did enjoy the experience; especially Bonnie and Jane who have never experienced the audience in the Piazza.    After Pope Francis gave his speech Mary was ready to go; it was extremely warm in the bright sunshine and the crowds were somewhat oppressive.  I arranged with the girls where I would meet up with them and then headed out towards the bus with Mary.   We walked to the bus #40 stop and she got on board with a seat and I waved goodbye to her about 11:15 am.  She was on the express bus with only a few stops that would take her back to Termini and then only a short walk to our Hostel.

I caught the # 64 bus which took me back to the edge of St. Peter’s and walked to the designated meeting area.  The Audience was still going on and I sent a text to Jane that I was back and would wait for them just outside of the Piazza.   It took us forty-five minutes to reconnect.   Thank goodness for cell phones, five phone calls and we finally met at the center of the colonnades directly in front of St. Peter’s.    There were thousands of people and they inched out of the Piazza and spilled out into the Piazza Pio XII; all heading for lunch.   

We started walking and headed for Piazza Navona, the old Roman Race Track; to see the site and also get some lunch.   It was after one o’clock when we arrive; spent some time in the Piazza enjoying the three famous fountains and the ambience of the very old area that has maintained the oval shape from the Roman times when they raced chariots around a track in this same space.   The most famous of the three fountains is the Four Rivers Fountain by Bernini.   This is the first time that I have not seen some portion of either the buildings or fountains covered in netting for cleaning and/or repairs over the past fifteen years.  Nice to see it as it was intended.   The girls picked up some artwork and then we went off to a restaurant that we’d seen on the way in, Ponte e Parione, on a street that circles the Piazza.   Coffee and a delicious Greek Salad and some free Wi-Fi where I finally reached Mary.  Her phone wasn’t working (discovered later I didn’t put the 00 in front of the French numbers in my Italian phone) so we’d called the Hostel and they’d let her know that we were all together again.   I found an email from her so knew that she was back in the Hostel resting for tomorrow’s adventure.

Our first stop after lunch was at the French Church:  The Church Saint Louis des Frances (of the French).  A beautiful baroque church that has a very special chapel where the three paintings were done by a very young twenty-nine year old Caravaggio.  The paintings are called “The Calling of St. Matthew”.   Took many photos for Jim as Caravaggio is one of his favorite painters and he’s specifically asked us to visit this church for him as it was closed the last time we were in Rome.

From there to the Pantheon to see the hole in the ceiling of the oldest building that has been used continuously as a church in Rome.   The construction of the dome has inspired the many domes over Europe since it was built over two thousand years ago.   There is still a church inside of the building; the Basilica of Santa Maria and the Martyrs.  Just around the corner we found the “best coffee shop” per Rick Steves in Rome; the Tazza D’Oro.   Enjoyed my second cappuccino of the day and then it was off to find the Rick Steves’ recommended best gelato shop in Rome:  Giolitti.  

On the way we walked past the huge Parliament Building; very official looking and busy, there was an encampment in front with a large tent and many signs.  Some type of protest that was drawing the media.  There were two newsmen doing reports in front of the building.   Many policemen and politicians in black suits milled about the Piazza.  We circled around and continued a block to the famous Giolitti for a gelato.  The shops was packed solid with nuns, young people, business suits and many tourists.   The kids were getting the biggest cones I’ve ever seen.  They were teaming up and four of them would get one cone with four or five scoops of gelato with a spoon for each of them!   Lots of fun to watch them decide which flavors to put into their cone.  I enjoyed a double scoop of Lemoncilo; delicious! 

Back past the Parliament building and through the Piazza Colonna with the tall spire that tells a story of mankind if you know how to read the sculptures that spiral up towards the top.  We were headed for Trevi Fountain as we enjoyed our gelato cones…well I did…the girls had their gelato in cups.   Along the way we stopped to buys some postcards.  Love the one with Pope Francis and a white dove.   Then we stopped again to watch one of the street artists as he entertained as he painted with a flair of whipping cans of aerosol paint to add color to his canvas that was taped to the street.  He has to be on a continual high as the odor was pervasive in the air around him! 

Finally we rounded a corner and Jane received her first ever view of the magical Trevi Fountain; it literally took her breath away she said!  Packed solid with people the girls had to give their coins a big toss to make sure they hit the water as they made a pledge to return to Rome again.  Bonnie said she first tossed a coin here when she was twenty-one years old; I won’t tell you how many years ago but it’s definitely been a few.

Down the few blocks to Spanish Steps and then over to the nearby Metro for a rush-hour ride home; the Metro is always packed but this was “really packed”.  Home to Mary at the Hostel about 7 pm.  We enjoyed a veggie dinner downstairs; they offer dinner in the Hostel three nights a week.  Very tasty.

And another day comes to a close.  Hope you enjoy the slideshow: 

October 14th & 15th, 2013 Travel to Rome and our First Day in Rome

For those who are unable to see the small slideshow that links you to my Picasaweb Albums ( Apple Products don’t show the slideshow); here is a link that you can save to access all of the photos:

http://picasaweb.google.com/marthajans

Our travel day started early; we needed to go below the B&B for some early morning Wi-Fi time before we left the apartment at 9:30 am.  By ten o’clock we were checked out and waiting for our bus that would take us to the train station. 

We were scheduled for the 12:07 train to Naples.

We arrived in Naples two hours later and had to wait there for our train to Rome that left at 3:15 pm.  We’d made our reservations so that we had a lag time between as one never knows exactly when the little train from Sorrento will arrive.  

The train to Rome was packed and all of our luggage had to be put up on the racks; Mary got some help from a nice gentleman, Bonnie and Jane stood on seats and together got their cases up.   Jane came and helped me as I had to go back to another area.  We had reserved seats and it was a newer coach in very good condition; a lovely two hour trip.  Arrived in Rome to beautiful weather and only a short walk of several blocks to the Beehive Hostel where we are all staying in the dorm room; a new experience for both Bonnie and Jane.   There are four bunk beds in the dorm room; all the beds are full each night.  Some are staying several days like us and others are in for a night and then we never see them again. 

About seven o’clock we walked out to find some dinner in the neighborhood; had a delicious dinner at a small restaurant only two blocks away.  Then over to the train station to purchase seven day passes for the buses and metro before heading home for some Wi-Fi time and early to bed.

We had trouble with the Wi-Fi in the evening; probably because there were too many of us online using Skype and uploading photos.  I finally gave up calling Jim and sent him an email that the Skype was not working.   Left my cell phone that I’m using with Skype on when I went to bed; the Wi-Fi started working during the night and sent the email.  Jim “assumed” that I was online and called me; it was about two o’clock in the morning; woke the whole dorm up by the time I woke up to answer the phone.   I was whispering to him as I climbed down from my top bunk bed and hurried into the hallway.    He felt terrible and we didn’t talk long; soon everyone was back to sleep.   The rest of the night was restless so I’m looking forward to a good night’s sleep tonight.   I’ll remember to turn off my cell phone tonight.  It’s so hard with the nine hour difference in time between Europe and California. 

This morning I was awake by five o’clock.  Mary woke at six and we walked to the Termini Train Station to find some early morning breakfast.   Termini Train Station never sleeps.   Coffee and egg sandwiches at MacDonalds before returning to make sure that Jane and Bonnie were up and going for our early morning appointment at the Vatican.  

We were out the door before 8:30 am; over to Termini and the Metro A Line for a fast ride to the Vatican area where we walked past the long lines waiting to get into the Museum.  We had pre-purchased our tickets on line and went straight through the door to our designated Tour Group.   We had whisper earphones so could easily hear the guide as we started our tour that began with ninety minutes in the Vatican Gardens.

We saw the secret garden, actually just a large garden in the center of the Museum where the tour groups take their people to explain what they are going to see when the visit the Sistine Chapel as they are not allowed to talk while in the chapel.   We had the history of the development of the various gardens by different popes. 

There is an English Garden, a French Garden and an Italian Garden.  We saw the helicopter pad for the Pope to use; the tower that was modified for the personal use of Pope John XXIII and is now used for the most important guests of the Pope to stay in during their visit.  It is also the highest point, elevation wise, in the Vatican State.   We saw where Pope Benedict now lives and learned that he has nine cats; we got to meet one of them:  a black and white cat that was very tame and allowed the tourists to pet him.  We visited the replica of the Lourdes Shrine where special events are held and people who are very ill are brought if they are unable to travel to France. 

We also learned that the statue of Mary that was brought from Fatima to open a special period of devotion to Mary here in Rome has already returned home.  We’d hoped to see the statue while we were here.  But, we did see a beautiful statue of Mary with the children of Fatima in the park. 

It was a wonderful tour and I hope that you’ll enjoy the selection of photos that I’ve included.  After we returned to the Vatican Museum we were free to spend as much time as we liked in the Museum and end our visit with a visit to the Sistine Chapel.   Bonnie an We left them about 11 am and enjoyed our day; we later found out that they were in the Museum from eleven until nearly five o’clock!   It had started to rain as they were leaving so they headed for the Metro and then found a nice place to have dinner before returning to the Hostel about 7 pm.

d Jane are much more into Museums than Mary and I so we split and went our own ways for the balance of the day.

Mary and I made it through the Museum in about an hour and then visited St. Peter’s Basilica before heading back to Termini and we thought home to rest.  But when we reached Termini by bus #64 we changed our mind and found a place to eat; it was two o’clock.   Once we had more coffee and a snack we were recharged and ready to go again.   Off we went by Bus # 64 again; getting off in near Via Nazionals and Via Genova.   Our goal was to walk over to pick up our tickets for the Pope’s Audience tomorrow.  Along the way we had a serendipity experience:  they were doing the changing of the guard with the whole company plus the band in parade in Piazza del Quirinale.  Lots of fun and photos before we continued our walk.

Once we had our tickets we continued down the street to the Pantheon and then stopped at the Jesuit Church of St. Ignazio di Loyola, there is a very large altarpiece in a vast empty church with baroque décor.   Then over to Trevi Fountain to fight the crowds so that we could toss our coins to ensure that we’ll return to Rome and then a gelato to enjoy as we continued our walk to Spanish Steps.   I noticed that all of the love locks have been removed on the fence of the church near Trevi; only a few new ones.  And, this is the first place in Europe that I saw the locks being attached to a fence back so many years ago; it has spread throughout Europe now and is beginning to be something akin to graffiti in my way of thinking.

The weather was changing rapidly and we could hear thunder in the distance; I remembered the Metro A Line runs right at Piazza di Spagna; so we hopped on board and were back at Termini in a few minutes.  It actually did rain a bit but we stayed dry.   Back at the Termini I purchased more time for the Italian cell phone and then we picked up some food to eat out in the patio for our dinner. 

It’s been a grand day and tomorrow we’re off to St. Peter’s again for the Wednesday audience.  Hope you enjoy the slideshow: