DAY FORTY EIGHT ON THE CAMINO

Last night we enjoyed a wonderful dinner with new friends, pilgrims from south Orange County in California.   A touch of home.  They started their camino in Lourdes France and will end in Fatima in Portugal after joining Sue's  brother and sister-in-law when they enter Santiago in a few days.  They walked together from st. Jean. PdP in France to Burgos  but due to different pace and ages decided to split after Sue needed a few days off due to injuries.  They took the train to Sarria and are walking at their own pace now and enjoying their separate adventure.  Everyone has their own pace and you are encouraged to walk it even it it means letting friends stay behind or walk ahead of you.

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This morning I went out in the dark to see the moon, no moon....we are low enough that we are once again under the layer of fog that spreads it's roof over the land that is known for wet weather patterns.  The many mountain streams are testament to the amount of moisture in the air.

We  ventured out at 8:30 am into light fog and daylight to begin out morning walk.  We were on fairly level trails until we stopped for breakfast at Portos.

After breakfast we left the trail and walked north off trail for less than two miles to a 12th to 13th century church out in the country.   Considered a transitional church between Gothic and Romansque, Jim was thrilled in that the caretaker arrived just as we did and opened up the church an hour earlier than we'd expected.  He also gave us a wonderful tour all in Spanish.  This was an ancient seat of the Knights of Santiago or more commonly known as the Knights Templar.  An hour later we were back on the road south for about two miles and then again on the Camino trail headed east towards our next hotel in Palas de Rei.  Soon we had some rolling hills through woodlands but enjoyed the walk especially after the sun came out and we could once again follow our shadows.

We walked a total of 8.68 miles today in just over five hours with two food stops plus the church.  Took us a bit to find our lodgings. I'd forgotten that it was on the next page of maps as it was located right on the trail but after we walked through the town.  Thank goodness for the Navigator app...it took us right there once I'd thought to use it.

All checked in and will be going to dinner soon here in the hotel.  Tomorrow we walk across the highway and we are on the Camino. ....   buen camino

    

DAY FORTY SEVEN ON THE CAMINO

Had a sleep.in morning and left about 9 am.  Beautiful full moon was still visible in the sky....hope to wake early one morning this week and walk by moonlight.  We are above the fog 5his morning and the valleys look like huge lakes and the mountaintops like islands.


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Our walk was only about four miles and we took a little over two hours including a stop for some breakfast.  Fairly gently with little ups and downs.  One area we were on what was a fire break...actually a road between the burned hills on our left and the beautiful green forest on the right. 

Jim got to experience some rocky trail today...we really appreciate our walking poles on this type of trail.

We had lots of pilgrims today but not too many huge groups.  Many had no backpacks so were walking quite rapidly.

We are in a lovely Pension with a private room and private bath for only an extra five euros.  Had the laundry done and have enjoyed the afternoon planning our next few days.  Have a couple from south Orange County on our Pension .
Buen Camino

 

DAY FORTY SIX ON THE CAMINO

We were awake early so left before daylight,  jim got to use a headlamp.  It was a wet foggy morning as we joined a steady stream of pilgrims on the trail that went steadily up for over a mile.  We soon had light but the sun didn't break through the fog until about eleven o'clock.    By that time we were well into our nearly eight mile walk in four and a half hours.

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We didn't have a place to stop until we were half way there, and that was jammed.  Jim had hot  chocolate and I enjoyed a fresh squeezed glass of orange juice along with the banana that we'd purchased yesterday.  That was breakfast.  Then I got into line with a dozen or so women to use the bano.

By the time we were back on the trail we were well rested and prepared for the second half of the trail which again included some climbing and this time in the sun.  But, we did enjoy shade trees along the majority of the trail.

Jim was sure we'd missed our village but I assured him we had not.  At this point of the camino there are very few alternate routes and so many pilgrims it's difficult to get lost.

About 12:30 we came down into a valley and found out home for the night at Hppistal da Cruz.  It's a tiny village with two albergues and farms and that's it.  Not sure how well the wifi will work but we do have a connection.

Finally settled in we enjoyed a lunch of ham and cheese omelets with a glass of beer. Jim is now napping.  Private room but nine rooms share two bathrooms.

We have a German couple staying that we met in Casa Morgade.  They are  English-speaking so will probably join them for dinner this evening.
 Buen Camino

   

DAY FORTY FIVE ON THE CAMINO

It was a beautiful Sunday morning, a bit foggy, for our seven mile walk over four hours.   By the time we arrived in Portomarin the sun was bright and hot, glad we were finished for the day.  The town was completely moved stone by stone in the 1960s when they build a dam up the hill to the present site.  The level is so low right now the old Roman bridge and foundations from the old town are  visible along the river.  We walked down to look at all of it after dinner.


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Our walk this morning was a wonderful stroll for the most part along country roads.  Had to stop for a herd of cattle being taken to their pasture for the day and saw a group of people in their Sunday best waiting for the bus to go to mass we assumed.  No huge crowds of pilgrims today which was nice but did see people about every fifteen minutes or so as we walked.  The last mile was a steep descent but on country paved roads.  We took it slow and steady all the way down.  Then back up to the town.

Stopped about half way and enjoyed a rest from the backpacks and had breakfast of tortilla de patatta...the spanish omlette.  Arrived about 1 pm and as we crossed the bridge Jim had his first experience of meeting a pilgrim for the second time. It's always an unexpected joy to see someone again as when you part you are never sure if you'll see them again.  Today we met the couple with the ukele again. 

We have  private bedroom tonight but are sharing the bathroom with three other private rooms.  And so ends another day on the camino. 

Buen camino

  

DAY FORTY FOUR ON CAMINO

I thought I was the only still on the trail that started early in August but today we met the young German man who I've stayed with and/or seen in several villages.  I introduced him to Jim and in talking I discovered he started from st. Jean two days before I began.  He has the time right now and is going slowly and enjoying the journey. 


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Today was very crowded, three large tour buses deposited about two hundred people on the trail at the 100 km mark so that they could do the journey with no backpack as rapidly as possible. They will do about 25 km per day and finish in santiago.  Some were almost running. 

It was mostly uphill and we struggled a bit but it was good that we only did twelve km, about nine miles in four hours.  No places to really stop other rocks along the trail.  We had a surprise concert by a man in full kilt playing a bagpipe...took a video which I will post on Facebook tomorrow when we have wifi.  Yes, we're in a lovely place in the mountains but there is no wifi.  With our T-Mobile we can do text and limited email, but that's about it.  Definitely no photos.

The hordes of new pilgrims also stopped here for refreshments,  so it was very busy for several hours.  One that stopped, and they were not on the bus, was fun to talk with.  She was on her second Camino and had started from St. Jean and he'd just arrived yesterday in Sarria like Jim.  They were from Minneapolis and he was very into Art so he and Jim had some deep conversation.  I asked what he was carrying in his backpack.  The neck of the case was protruding out the top.  It was a tenor classical uklela that he always travels with.  We talked him into playing for us and I also have that video for you tomorrow.

A large beer and we relaxed and enjoyed the afternoon.  It's now time for dinner and I will post this tomorrow. Buen Camino

  

DAY FORTY THREE ON THE CAMINO

A long day that started at 5:30 am to the tune of multiple snores surrounding me.  It's now after 9 pm and Jim is already asleep in our very quiet hotel room.



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I walked the 2 miles into Sarria this morning with another pilgrim who has problems with her knees.  We parted ways just over the bridge as she left for Morgade and I went looking for our hotel.  Got checked in, and also arranged transport of Jim's suitcase for the balance of the trip.  I was able to lighten my pack by about five pounds that I was able to put in his suitcase.  I'll zip up that mountain tomorrow!


I met Jim at the bus station and we walked to the hotel.  Sarria seems like a big city after so many days in the small villages...but it's only a nice sized town.  We're able to walk everywhere we need to go.  Reorganized the bags and then went eat dinner along the river.  Afterwards we walked up what seemed like a zillion steps to the church where we registered Jim as an official pilgrim starting his camino journey tomorrow.


Afterwards it was back to the hotel and soon to bed.  It's been a long day for both of us.  Buen Camino

  

DAY FORTY TWO ON THE CAMINO

This is my last solo day as tomorrow I will walk two miles into Sarria and met Jim when he arrives by bus from Madrid.  He's still enjoying the museums there today.


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Lori, who I met yesterday in Samos, needed to walk a long distance today and arrive in Morgade by three this afternoon.  Jim and I will slowly walk there by Saturday afternoon!  So I agreed to get up early and walk with her until we had daylight.  Actually, I was thrilled to be asked as she had to agree to walk my pace with me.  We agreed to leave by 7 am.  By 5:30 I was awake and getting ready and so was she so by 6:30 we were out the door. 

It was one of the darkest mornings I've walked...no stars or moon could be seen.  We were so glad we were together, especially when we went into the grave yard to get a better photo of the bell tower on the church which didn't come out after all.

We had a great time together for two hours and then she was off to walk much faster to make it up the mountain to Morgade.  I slowed down and enjoyed myself more as I walked the country road that led me to the outskirts of Sarria.  It was at least half an hour before I saw a pilgrim or any human on the road.  It was a lonely walk but enjoyed the variety of sounds in the forest.   I saw some  tiny baby calves that couldn't have been more than a week old. 

Chestnut trees were still full of spiky green balls and I found a few walnuts and one smooth green ball that was still whole with the walnut inside.

I finally arrived at a village that had an open bar and stopped after nearly seven miles.  Soon a couple from Oregon stopped and than another American.  I didn't realize it at the time but I was nearly at my albergue when I stopped.

I arrived very early at my albergue  Paloma y Lena in less than a mile.  It is in San Mamede, a farming community just two miles outside of Sarria.   I will walk there tomorrow and Jim will come by bus from Madrid.  It is one of the best albergues that I've stayed at.  Family run and A+ on condition and service.  

I had a cup of tea, chatted with two Russian girls who stopped for a cup of coffee, and then checked in before leaving for a walk to the outskirts of Sarria and back. ... adding three miles to my total.

I've talked to Jim using Whatsapp, washed my hair and laundry and now enjoying the afternoon.  FYI, in addition to having dinner with Lori we also enjoyed her walking partner from yesterday at our table.  He owns eight real estate offices in Canada, and Lori is in Marketing strategies so it was a lively dinner table.  He walks 30 to 40 km every day so was gone before six o'clock and will complete his camino within just a few days.  I loved that he has booked a room in the Parador hotel across from the cathedral in Santiago for his day there.  He'd be a tough act to follow as he never seems to stop.  But Lori and I both enjoyed getting to know him.  By the way, the food was outstanding. I had veal and you could cut it with your fork.  And, the restaurant is open all afternoon so we were able to eat at 5 pm and still attend the 7:30 pm mass at the monastery.  

It was a great day both yesterday and today.  Looking forward to seeing Jim tomorrow afternoon.  Tonight we have a vegetarian dinner here in the albergue.   It's full of pilgrims for the night so it will be a lively table with many different languages.    Buen camino

  

DAY FORTY ONE ON THE CAMINO

Had a bit of fog during the morning but overall it's another beautiful day in Spain.  Today I walked 6.79 miles in four hours.  No place to stop for tea so it went faster.   The first half was on and off of a highway...not so nice;  but the second half was on beautiful trails through wooded areas and tiny villages full of cows and I even found some pigs today.  The terrain a lot of ups and downs but only one really hard hill that was down steeply and very uneven rocks.


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A note...we follow cow paths most of our days so you have to able to tolerate the odor and watch your steps constantly. Another reason our walking shoes are not brought into the bedrooms.

Tonight I'm in the village of Samos that surrounds a huge sixth century monastery out in the middle of nowhere.  I took a tour this afternoon of the monastery and plan to go back tonight for the 7:30 Mass.

Today I saw corn...that was as high as an elephants eye... my first pigs, many small churches mostly closed.  I had to stop once to allow a farmer to move his cows past me on the way to their pasture.

I had a wonderful dinner with two new pilgrims and then attended the 7:30 pm mass in the monastery.  It's been a very good day.  And Jim is sound asleep by now in Madrid.  He arrived at his hotel about noon and we talked.

  Buen camino

  

DAY FORTY ON THE CAMINO

The dinner last night was a communal type with the entire albergue at a huge table. We each had a bowl, soup spoon , knife, fork and glass.  The wine and water bottles kept arriving along with the bread.  Soup in large quantities appeared all along the table.  When we'd eaten our fill the large platters of potatoes and tender beef appeared, we used our soup bowl for our plate.  Dessert was a slice of lemon torte covered in powdered sugar that we ate using our hands. A wonderful dinner with outstanding table conversation.

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Remember the couple pulling their things on a single wheel cart outside of Leon.  They sat across from me and I asked if they had the single wheeled cart?   They looked puzzled and then said yes but it had broken on the trails and now they are each carrying a backpack.  I said I'd posted a photo on facebook.  I found it for them and am sending them a copy on their email. 

And also across from me were two ladies from Indianapolis and Greenwood Indiana.... 40 miles north of my birthplace.  So we shared stories of living in Indiana.  Leaving for the walk back we found a changed weather pattern which produced a spectacular evening sky.

This morning came early and I left about 8 am in the early morning light and fog that quickly surrounded you as the pilgrims began the descent in light mist as we moved lower and into the fog layer.

We eventually passed below on our twisting country road that slowly but surely took us lower and lower into the valley below.  I  descended two thousand  feet over the next four and a half hours.  I made two stops at villages for toilet, food to pay for the toilet and a rest in the process.  The ladies from Indiana were at the first stop so we had another chance to visit.  My total milage for the day was 6.82 miles. 

More on the home countries of pilgrims I've met:  England, Ireland, Scotland,  Poland and I'm sure a few more.  It would probably be easier to list who isn't represented on this trail.  I'm meeting more and more Americans.   My first were from Arizona, Georgia, Ohio,  Vermont, Iowa,  California,  Illinois,  Indiana,  Florida,  Texas, Nevada and so many more.  We are well represented.  The couple from Poland  today wanted to know why and how Americans know about this walking trail in Spain? 

Walking this morning I saw a man with braces on both knees walking very fast and carrying his walking poles.  Again, it is the foolish who have injuries.  I also saw more chestnuts in their green spiky balls and walnuts inside their smooth green balls.  Both grow on trees in Spain.

Tonight I'm in the small town of Triacastela, so named because centuries ago there were three castles.  All that remains today is there images carved on the bell tower of the town church.

I've met some American ladies here from Northern California and I invited myself to eat dinner with them tonight.  Jim is flying to Madrid today so keep him in your prayers.

 Buen camino

 

DAY THIRTY NINE ON THE CAMINO

Village church bells in Padornelo

My favorite first course at dinner

It's another glorious day in Spain.  Cool in the morning and warming up fast when the sun slides above the hills.

Started walking at daybreak.  I was awake at six and went outside to see the sky which was alive with brilliant stars.  They looked like you could reach out and touch them.  Spotted the big and little dippers and more.  The north star was so bright I thought it was an airplane!

But I thought it best to wait until I had enough light to spot the cow pies I knew were in the roads and trails I was traveling today.  Left at 7:15 am and three and a half hours later I'd arrived at the albergue Reboleira in Fonfria.  It was recommended by another pilgrim ahead of me and they were right, one of the best I've stayed in during my journey.



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I hadn't remembered we had one more peak on the O'Cebreiro Stage,  but once more this morning the yellow arrows pointed up and we climbed back up to 4416 feet at Alto do Poio .   Good news was it had a bar where many stopped for breakfast including yours truly.   There I met a lady from Iowa who is traveling solo and we enjoyed our break together.
Leaving the area I finally started my descent of the mountain.   I've still got another five miles tomorrow, and that section is the steepest.   Think I'll wait for daylight again tomorrow. 

Last night I enjoyed the company of three good friends from Scotland for dinner.  They come each year and walk for a week, starting from their stopping point each time.  The plan is to finish next year.

Lots of pilgrims arriving.  I'm also looking for friends who I know are behind me hoping they'll catch me on these slow stages.  I've been thinking about the various pilgrims I've met over the last weeks.  They've been from Spain, France,  Germany, Italy,  Portugal, Belgium, Netherland,  Sweden,  Russia,  Romania, Hungary, America,  Canada, Mexico, Korea,  China, Chili, Brazil,  Venuzala , South Africa,  New Zealand , Austrilia, Tunisia and those are just the ones I can remember easily.  It is a coming together of people from around the world for a wide variety of reasons and gaining a new understanding of the world around us.  It's an amazing journey, so much more than I ever expected.
  Buen camino

  

DAY THIRTY EIGHT ON THE CAMINO

I was thrilled that I was able to post those photos yesterday.  We had unusually good wifi...not so today.  It's a lovely little albergue but we have to go two blocks for wifi and food.  But for eleven euros...and very hot showers.....it's good.  And it's right on the downhill of O'Cebreiro so we can watch the pilgrims who are still coming down in the hot sun.  I see many who walk past five o'clock in the afternoon.  Today I saw a pilgrim riding a recumbent bike, I'd heard about him earlier. Also saw the three women riding horses, no gear so they are probably on a tour with their baggage being transported.  But they were wearing proper riding clothes.  I also saw them yesterday evening.




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Last night I  was able to eat at 6 pm which was nice.  Then to bed early.  I discovered my roommates were all French friends traveling together.  They were very nice but I soon discovered all seven had head colds and snored.  I took a benedryl pill, put in my ear plugs and tucked my head into my sleeping bag. 

Up early this morning, I was out at dawn which is always nice but chilly for the hands.  But the sun comes over the mountains soon and then we're shedding jackets.

Today I walked 5.11 miles in three and a half hours including a stop for breakfast at the top in the village of O'Cebreiro.   There I also saw the mother and daughter from Seattle.  I met them three days ago and last night we talked as they came through the village where I stayed.  They were walking on to O'Cebreiro to spend the night.  When they arrived they found that there was no beds any where in the village.  The mother takes a blood thinner and had had a bad reaction the day before and she'd had to go to a hospital for an infusion.  So they really needed a bed.   Suddenly two glowing American girls walked towards them and said "we've had our showers and feel so great we've decided to walk further this evening!  Would you like to have our room."   The camino provides is a saying we hear all of the time....and it does.  We call these girls camino angels. 

We walked together for awhile but they are going all the way down the mountain today so they were soon well past me.

The walk up to O'Cebreiro took me about ninety minutes.  I climbed from 3784 ft to 4560 feet at the summit.  Slow but steady pace to the tune of the cow bells that were ringing nearly all the way up.  They were on a trail below me and finally entered the road I was on and went past me with the three farmers who were with them.

After breakfast I continued on the green trail through the forest.  There was an iron cross on the hill but somehow I missed the turnoff but while stopped for photos I saw it behind me through the trees.  Too far to go back to the narrow path that I thought might have taken me there.  But I did get a good photo.


When I reached Alto San Roque at about 4200 ft there was a monument of a pilgrim that everyone was doing photos at.  I took a selfie but the best one has a pilgrim coming out the top of my head.  Oh well. 

Soon I was through the next little village and before I knew it I'd arrived in the village of Hospital.  So named because in ancient times there were hospitals here to care for injured pilgrims.  Now the village church is closed and there are two places for pilgrims to find a bed and one place for wifi and food.  Definitely one of those places you'd miss if you blinked as you drove past. 

I arrived at 11:30 am and had to wait on the porch until 1 pm to check in, but nice bench and great view.

The beds are good...only 20 in one room.  But food and wifi at the bar.  It's nearly 5 o'clock and only a couple of beds left.  As we get closer to Sarria it will become harder to find beds late in the day.  Jim and I have pre reserved all of our rooms for after he arrives.  I arrive so early and a single bed in the dorms is pretty easy to do.

Take care and pray that camino angels keep appearing when needed.
Buen camino

  

DAY THIRTY SEVEN ON THE CAMINO

Have arrived for the night in Laguna de Castillo at a lovely new albergue and only nine euros for a bed. We are just below the summit of O'Cebreiro at 3777 ft.  It was just under five miles and took me four hours at a slow steady pace.  The trail was very rocky in places, glad I had my walking poles..they kept me from a nasty tumble once.  I started at 2350 ft this morning and dropped down to 2152 ft before starting the climb.


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About that time I met a lovely Canadian woman who has done the Camino many times and gives talks about the journey and especially the spiritual aspects of it.  She has her first client with her on this trip as she is beginning  a new tour business as a guide on the camino.

Enjoyed our walk together to LaFaba where I stopped for a break and she continued on as they were doing the mountain in one day.

Last night was a great experience.  First of all I once again met Mois  (sorry, not sure of the spelling).  I've seen him about every two weeks throughout this journey. He's from the San Joaquin Valley in California.  He seemed so much happier this time. He finally decided to have his pack transported ocassionally, and he's beginning to plan his trip for after Santiago.  Looks like he may do a tour bus from London to Ireland, Scotland and Wales.  Nice fellow and good to see him again.  The dinner was wonderful,  we had a french couple, two germans, a Swedish lady and me.  Soup, salad, spaggetti and dessert..all served with a smile.   We were awakened this morning by classical music.  A nice place except bad wifi.

Since arriving I have done my laundry and enjoyed watching the exhusted pilgrims arriving who race up the hill.  We had a herd of cattle walk past us.  Four pilgrims  on horses....they advertise that as an option for those that don't want to walk in the altitude.

The views this morning were breathtaking...think sound of music...but the camera didn't do them justice.  The early morning was actually cold enough that I  tried wearing socks on my hands...didn't work very well. But soon the sun came over the hill and it was too warm as we quickly shed jackets.  Another beautiful day in Spain. 
Buen camino

   

DAY THIRTY SIX ON THE CAMINO

I've been asked about the size of the villages.  Ruitelan, where I am tonight has albergues and a bar.  No stores, no grocery store, no pharmacy....it exists solely for housing the pilgrims.  Without the Camino most of these villages would disappear.   From here to Sarria I think most them will be like this one.


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I ate dinner last night with a man from the Netherlands, so glad I'm not married to him.  But it made me appreciate Jim much more.  He has really been great while I've been gone and I'm glad I'll see him in another week.

Today was a slow walk of 6.28 miles in three and a half hours.  One stop to warm my fingers which were frozen, have a glass of hot tea and a croissant.   It warmed up by the time I left.  Our day was along the country road with a concrete barrier for half of it.  The Rio Valcarce river ran along side the road for the last two day...Beautiful sounds even when I couldn't see it.  Saw cows and horses and vineyards.  Found some walnuts on the road.

The altitude here is about 2350 ft.  Have slowly gone up.  Tomorrow I will really be climbing...half way up to 4362 feet which is the top I will go over on Sunday.

But again tomorrow I'm walking just under five miles but it will be a very steep path.  Weather is suppose to be really great for the next few days. 

Buen Camino 

 

DAY THIRTY FIVE ON THE CAMINO

Last night it turned out the albergue was not serving dinner which was perfect.  I walked back to the bar where I'd had my tea and cake in the morning, went to the dining room and ordered the Pulpo a la galega...octopus.  that plus two glasses of red wine and I was a happy gal.  I'm pretty sure it was steamed and then the sauce was added. .. but it was delicious.


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A bit more expensive by 4 euros than the pilgrim dinner..but it was nice to do something special.   My roommates were out at a bar watching a soccer (futbol) match between spain and rome.  One of them was  happy I never heard who won.  The Italian over did the walking and has shin problems and he couldn't get out of bed this morning so they are letting him stay for a second day.  Both the spanish fellow and myself gave him some of our food (I gave him a banana and a chocolate bar) so that he could eat something with out getting up this morning.   Found out the Spanish fellow is married  and a police officer in Barcelona.  I felt  very safe last night.   But I did put my ear plugs in.  Actually slept the best for days, I never heard them come home...but it had to be before ten o'clock as they lock the doors then.

Woke up late and didn't get out the door until nearly nine o'clock.   But it was another short day so no problem.   I saw a small church and slipped in but it was just ending.  Morning was cool but not cold and although there are some clouds, it's nearly three o'clock now and still no rain or wind.  Actually a beautiful day.
My  walk today was six miles in three hours.  I had a choice of a route along the highway or two different route in the mountains all ending in the same town.  I chose the road because it's easier to follow as I was walking solo.  Most of the time there was a thick wall dividing the path from the highway.  On one side we had a steep mountain that has been burned recently.   The other side was a small stream that was below us a few feet but created a pleasant sound as we walked.  At one point I was crushing walnuts as I walked that had fallen from the trees. 

I stopped midway and had a cup of tea and a french bread for breakfast and after I left I met a German woman walking slow because of a bad foot.  We walked the rest of the way together and then she continued on to the next town where she is meeting her son. 

I arrived at noon and was able to check in.  Did my laundry by hand as it would have been eight euros for wash and dry.  There is a mass at 7 pm tonight in the church at the end of the village that I plan to attend if it's not raining.   I also saw two pilgrims on horses that rode through town but no photo as I was too slow getting to the window.

Buen camino

  

DAY THIRTY FOUR ON THE CAMINO

Last night's dinner with Ines, the girl from germany was very nice.  We discovered that we actually saw each other several times on the trail and had dinner in the same place in Foncebadon in the mountains three days ago. This morning she was off to make some miles today before the rain began.


Link to Picasa Web Album:  https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/DayThirtyFourOnTheCamino916?authuser=0&feat=directlink

I walked part of the way today with a young girl from Ireland,  we both decided to take the road as it was shorter but was rather scary as it was busy and there was not much of a shoulder.  But we survived and walked the last hill on a dirt road into  Villafranca del Bierzo together.  She stopped for a snack and then left.  I found my albergue San Nicolas and they let me leave my poles and pack, but I had to wait until noon to check in.  Only a block from the Plaza Mayor where there were plenty of places.  The rain started to pour just as we entered town.

There is a huge monastery here but the doors were shut.  The church that we are attached to is now  a hotel. 

My slow pace is nice...easy to carry my own pack even though I haven't gotten rid of anything. Maybe I've acquired more muscle!   Today was 5.47 miles in just under three hours.  Dinner tonight is here and is only 10 euro with more food than I can eat but I do enjoy the wine they serve with the meal. 

We're in the mountains now of the part of Spain known as Galicia.  The weather is known to change frequently and their special dish is Pulpo a la galega. ...steamed octopus.   I love it so will try to have some while  I'm here.

Buen camino