DAY 49 MUXIA

Day 49 and my schedule changed.  I left at 7:30 am and walked  for two hours...very lonely as I only met a couple of people.  It was an extremely steep downhill...see the photo of that section of the map..
Some on roads but mostly on logging roads in the forest.  By 9:30 I'd reach the village where I'd planned to stay. Only a municipal albergue available so no reservation.  What to do?  And, it didn't open until 1 pm.
I found one bar and stayed there until 11 am.  Walked back to the albergue and still no staff.  Just about that time the driver showed up with my backpack .   There was also a company sitting up a sound system at the albergue that looked like they were going to do a concert.
I told the driver that I would probably be going to Muxia instead of staying here.  He gave me a taxi phone number and left.  I called the albergue in Muxia where I had reservations for   Saturday and Sunday nights.  Confirmed I could come a day early.  Called the taxi who arrived within 5 minutes and I was off on a wild ride over hill and dale until we finally reached the coast and the beautiful town of Muxia.
It reminds me of the east coast.  It's full of history and legends about St. James.  The Blessed Virgin appeared to him here and also his body was found on the shores and was here until they moved it to the cathedral in Santiago de compostela .   That and more legends keep people coming but also I think for the shear beauty of this place.  I walked around for an hour after I settled in.  Tomorrow I'm putting on my walking clothes and heading out along the coast for a few miles to really enjoy the views.
I'll be leaving on Monday for my last two walking days that will take me to Finisterre .  Buen Camino

DAY 48. LOGOSO

Day 48... days are moving fast.  I'm in another little mountain albergue in the middle of nowhere called Logoso.  Today I walked nearly 11 miles in 6 hours, up and down hills and over two good sized mountains.  Well, maybe just bigger hills but they seemed to take forever.   When I saw a row of wind machines I said to myself, I bet I'm gonna be walking under those in a couple of hours.  It was about two miles before the albergue.  I talked to myself a lot today, rarely saw anyone and then they passed me by.  But it was always good to see a person  as that indicated I wasn't lost!  LOL
Last night enjoyed the evening with Sonia and Lisa from Napa Valley and today I met a couple who live in Las Vegas.  They were thrilled when I shared info on the pharmacy.... they are both struggling with injury pain.
The number of pilgrims has really thinned out.  Many who take time for going to finisterre go there by bus like Jim and I did three years ago.  But the trails are well marked and the weather has been beautiful.
Buen Camino

DAY 47 SANTA MARINA

Day 47 and I walked 13.4 miles today in 6.42 hours.  Actually had drizzles for a while but the sun was out before 10 am.  I'm in a farming area...very aromic.. 
The albergue is called Casa Pepa and is across the street from a very old church and still very active cemetery in Santa Marina.  No ocean views yet but did have many hills today.
Several people here from last nights dorm.  And met many new people on the trail today.  Two Irish fellows wanted to talk about Trump and I eventually turned it around to Brexit... we all have our political problems.  Have gotten to know two women from Napa Valley.  One walked last year and came back to walk to Finisterre with the other friend who walked this year and it's her birthday.  Nice ladies.  Overall a good day, had my backpack carried and am going to continue.  Hopefully  will be in tip top shape by Paris.  In talking to people many are on pain meds for various reasons.  Biggest is feet and then knees.  Pain is part of the Camino.
I wore my drawstring bag on the front today which was better than it bouncing on my back.  Day by day ...
Buen Camino

DAY 46 NEGREIRA

Day 46 and I'm in a town called Negreira about one hour by bus west of Santiago de Compostela or fourteen miles if you walk the trail.
I decided to walk but then changed my mind  and do this on the bus as a very long portion is walking through the city of Santiago.
Ironically, as I waited for the bus to unload passengers from Muxia; to my astonished amazement I saw two of my favorite and longest running "Camino friends", Kevin and Linda from England.  We first met way back on July 19th, and have been meeting regularly with no plan ever since.  I last saw them in Leon and they are now finished and flying home tomorrow.  As I was running for my bus we  realized we'd never exchanged contact information even though we'd shared meals and walked miles together.  They got me over some tough mountains.  So we did it ..
Finally.  Of course those cards I've carried the whole trip were buried in my bag when I really needed them!  We put phone numbers in the cell phones that were in our hands.  Technology wins again!
The bus ride was great and when I got off in Negreira I had no ideal where my albergue was located so I was checking GPS when I heard someone calling .Martha ... I turned around and hanging out the bus door was a young girl with her cell phone saying hi Martha.. I'm Marta.. I want to take your photo.  I have no ideal where we met, but it was somewhere on the camino.  So much fun.  Because of the gray hair in pigtails they all remember me.  Amazing. 
My albergue was only a block from the bus stop.  Tomorrow I walk across the street and I'm on the trail.  Still looks like rain outside...another reason I took the bus today. Have arranged bag transport for tomorrow and rain or shine I will walk the 13 miles to Santa Marina. 
I've attached photos of the map pages for today and tomorrow.  Buen Camino

DAY 45. SANTIAGO DAY OFF

Wow.... day 45... a real day off.  Enjoying doing much of nothing.  Met up with a friend of a Camino friend from 2015.  We actually realized we've talked to each other on the trail. We attended the 10 am English mass on a small side chapel and then spent sometime together before going on with our days activities.  Good to meet DIDI and I also talked with my German ladies who introduced me to their friend who they met on a camino ten years ago.  He flew from Germany to be here to greet them yesterday.
Have been busy repacking for my ten days to the Ocean before leaving for Madrid and then Paris.
Leaving everything that is extra here at the hostel in Santiago, I'll be spending one night here before going to Madrid.
Twin sister is moving into her apartment in Indianapolis, and daughter Jenn is recovering from the first of two foot surgeries to correct bone problems. Nothing to do with her walk. Jim is busy with last minute problems that always seem to happen when you are leaving town.  But he's looking forward to a visit from Jay and Holly who have a wedding anniversary tomorrow.
Keep Jon Davis, a friend from real estate days, in your prayers...very seriously ill...     Life continues..
Buen Camino

DAY 44 SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA

Day 44 and I walked into Santiago de Compostela at noon today in time to attend the noon pilgrim mass and video the botafumeiro swinging at the end of mass. Was met by many smiles and hugs of people I have met during the past week on the Camino.  My newest friend from San Franscisco walked into the city with me and it was wonderful to have someone to share the experience with..
Thanks Yuning.  There were many special moments but those that stand out were the orange shirt family.  The large group from Mexico City and the Italian couple that I shared my story with as we stood in line to receive our certificates. 
Our dorm had alarm clocks going off starting at 2 am.  By 3 am I was wide awake.  By 4 I was getting ready to walk and I left at 5 am..
Full moon and stars were beautiful.  I left Yuning a note as I didn't have the heart to wake her.  She woke as we scheduled and was out the door by 6 am and had
caught up with me by 9 am.  We walked the rest of the way together and entered Santiago together.  We headed for the front of the cathedral for photos and met many friends.  Then hurrided to the side door and a very long line of pilgrims going in for mass.  We got inside and worked out way over to the far exited and attended mass.  At the end the robed men came out to swing the botafumeiro and I was able to get another excellent tape.
Meeting Yuning for dinner at 7 PM.  Have done the long line for the certificate.  I'm all checked in to my albergue close enough to hear the bells.  I also have a huge group of Italians here tonight.  Tomorrow I finalize my additional hike to the ocean.  Stay tuned...
Buen Camino

DAY 43. O'PEDROUZO

Day 43 and I am in the town of O'Pedrouza at a new albergue by the name of Albergue Cruceiro de Pedrouzo.  It has beds for 94 pilgrims in eight rooms.  Some are small but the majority are in huge rooms.
I walked 15 miles today in 8 hours with full sunshine all day, but for the most part the trails were shaded by very old trees and it made for cool walking considering how hot the sun was.
My walking improved tremendously today... mostly because I had American walking partners almost all day.  I had seriously thought of doing at least half by taxi today but walking and talking made the day fly!  We made three rest stops and my German ladies were at the last one.  So good to see people you know.
My Americans were a mother and daughter from Long Island New York and a young woman from San Franciaco who is actually staying in my albergue and we're going to do dinner together.  We'll probably walk into Santiago together tomorrow.  She travels extensively both with her job and personally. 
Tomorrow is the BIG DAY and all three of the Americans are staying two nights in Santiago so hopefully I'll get to see them again after we arrive. I've added the map pages from today and tomorrow for you.
  Buen Camino

DQY 42 RIBADISO

Day 42...a short walk of 7 miles in 4 hours.  I'm in Ribadiso.   Stopped three times for coffee.  Arrived at 11:30 am.  Weather overcast; no bright sun until noon.  The trail was sharp uphill and then down and up and down..  continued that way all morning.  Saw lots of new people and many repeats.  The father and daughter from Valencia, Spain walked with me for a while.  Yesterday we talked about their annual festival with the giant paper machi people that parade.  We were there in 2010 and saw them parade!  Nice to be able to talk about something when I learn what town they are from.  Saw the large family with the orange shirts again and another large family group including grandparents... but no matching shirts. 
There were two young men who are running their pilgrimage.  Not sure if they get extra points for that!
An Italian girl in my albergue last night had a very unusual walking stick.  This morning on the trail we talked about it.  She had a much small one when she started and one day an older Spanish man approached her and asked if she would exchange walking poles with him and take his to Santiago for him?  When she agreed he told her it would  carry special prayers for himself and his wife.  So it carrys a great deal of responsibility to make sure it and the prayers arrive in Santiago.  See the photo and you'll see the size of the staff.  Not sure I would have agreed to do this but she is young and strong and I'm sure she will finish with it in the next two days.
Feeling better today, but still taking it easy.
Buen Camino

DAY 41. MELIDE

Its day 41 and I'm in the town of Melide, yes we have ATM and pharmacies!
It was a very long walk of 15 painfully slow miles over 9 hours.  Left in the dark at 6 am and had a walking partner until day light two hours later which was great. I finally relented and got some 600 mg Ibuprofeno pills when I arrived at the pharmacy...I'm a new woman this afternoon.  I can walk without pain. But no beer or wine until I don't need it any more...strong motivation.
The crowds were less today as I began and ended mid-stage.  But we had a group of twenty from age 3 to 50s.. appeared to be brothers and sisters and their children.  They had 2 "buggies" with them for the little ones when they got tired.  Everyone was in an orange shirt with their name on the back.  They all live just north of Madrid and this was their third day of walking.  Yes... I found one who spoke English and asked questions.   Met 2 German ladies who spoke English and we stopped several times together...me for coffee...  they for beer.   My Canadian sisters were on the trail with me but the last time I saw them the older (6 years) one was desperately looking for the younger one who had stopped.  The younger one is a smoker and overweight... definitely not her ideal to be doing this trip.  Their mother paid their airplane tickets and thought this trip would bring them closer together.  Reminder:  this is a trip that EACH pilgrim must WANT to do!  I walked to the grocery store and purchased things for dinner.   My alberge is very new and the bed price included top/bottom sheets, pillow case and a towel!  Living in luxury tonight.  Buen Camino

DAY 40. AIREXE

It's day 40 and I'm in the village of Airexe.. blink and you'd miss it.  Two albergues and a bar on a corner of the trail.  Today was two tough long uphill climbs during the 11 mile walk for six hours.  I left in total darkness at 5:45 am... but I was never alone on the trail.  Amazing the number of people who were already out long before me.  Just before leaving I checked message .. which I rarely do .. and received some very sad news.  Little Joe McCann died suddenly this week.  He was a giant among men and thus his nickname from childhood stuck as an adult.  He was like a son to us as he was always with our boys all the way through school and has continued to be part of our lives.  He and our son Russ are the same age and best friends.  His service is Saterday.  He will be missed by many in our community.  My prayers today as I walked were for Joe and his beautiful family. 
As we walked in the dark this morning there were several groups saying the rosary together as they walked and others filling the air with songs.  All of this as we carefully stepped around the droppings from animals as we are using their trails most of the time out here amidst the farms. 
The man from Scotland walked the last three miles with me and it was nice to have someone to talk with as we walked.  I first met him 3 days ago before Sarria.  He is a bit difficult to understand with his accent.  Met a group of 12 from Mexico City today and a group of 25 from eastern europe.   So many pilgrims.  Finding beds is becoming difficult for those without reservations. Today  was easy.. tomorrow will be a bit longer but hopefully the Scottish man will walk part of it with me. Buen Camino

DAY 39. PORTOMARIN

Day 39 and I'm at the albergue Ultreia in the town of Portomarin.  This was to be my longest day of walking but thanks to a Camino Angel.. I arrived early enough to get a regular twin bed rather than the dreded top bunk bed that I'd expected due to a very late arrival.  I left at 6:15 am in total darkness for my 15 mile walk.  Because of the hip pain I'm walking much slower than I generally do.  So my planned arrival would have probably been 4 PM or after.  But I was determined to walk the distance.  I arrived in Sarria, 2 miles, by 7 am. Stopped for some breakfast and was out of the city by 8 am.  The next five miles to Morgade was mostly uphill. I was never alone.  I probably had seen about 100 of them in the past two days. Everyone else was new... pilgrims beginning their journey from Sarria to Santiago.  If they get two stamps per day that proves that they have walked and they can request a Compostela certificate when they arrive.  Today there were large groups, families, one couple with their dog, and a donkey carrying goods.  The weather was perfect.  Remember those clouds I showed you yesterday?  Today we were below them and it was nice and cool, and a bit damp, up until 11 am when the sun broke through.
I stopped for lunch and took my shoes off at Morgade.  Leaving there I walked the next of mile of the remaining six of a total of 15 for the day.  I'd finally taken two aspirin and at the next time the trail crossed over a road.. there sat a taxi!  He motioned, I smiled but shook  my  head no, as I limped past him.
Suddenly out of the trail popped a husband and wife from Madrid. I'd been walking with them on and off for two days.  They asked me to share breakfast on the trail earlier but I said no that I was doing lunch at Morgate.
They'd decided to take the taxi to Portomarin.  They grabbed my arm and pulled me with them to the grinning taxi driver.  When I took out some money they immediately said NO.  They spoke very little English,the wife none at all.  I kept quiet, felt a bit guilty as we contined to pass group after  group of pilgrims.  After many thank you and gracias the husband looked me in the eye and said "your welcome". I told him that they were Camino Angel's today.  I've only been able to be one several times, but on the receiving end over and over by so many wonderful people. 
Enjoyed our community dinner last night.  Tonight will walk to the restaurants that are nearby.  This is a very interesting town, they rebuilt the entire town on high group when there was a dam built that caused it be covered in water many years ago.  Only the church survived because it was already high on the hill.  Tomorrow is a much shorter walk .. see the photo of the map page.  Enjoying all of the new pilgrims but so glad I have all of my reservations for beds every night.  So today I only walked 10 miles instead of the planned 15.
Buen Camino.

DAY 38 SAN MAMEDA (SARRIA)

Day 38 and I'm at an albergue 2 miles before Sarria.  Should have gone further today.but had good memories of this place and wanted to stay again.  So tomorrow will be extra long.  Today was 9 miles in 6 hours.  But no aspirin for the hip so that's good. 
I made 2 stops, the first at what one would call a hippie stopping point... offered free coffee, etc. For a donation.  I said a toilet would be nice and yes,  they had a glorified toilet out back just for women.  So the donation was worth it.  See the photos.  The 2nd stop was a regular bar but enjoyed the coffee, pastry and a regular bathroom!
The numbers of pilgrims is increasing drastically.  I was never alone on the trail.  I will post separately a video of a young nun playing her guitar and singing as she led her group.   Did another cow
Video but no good.
one bull  stopped to sniff me until the woman farmer shoved him away.   Not seeing any of the earlier pilgrims, all new from yesterday.  Tomorrow will be interesting as Sarria is where they must begin walking to qualify for a compostela certificate in Santiago.  I posted a photo of today's map so you can see the up and down of my walk... good workout, but most of the trail sections had good shade.
Buen Camino

DAY 37. TRIACASTELA

Day 37 and I had a short walk today of only six miles to Tricastela.  But, 90% downhill.  The next two days are both long ones.
Nice mountain town with a very old church that had a mass at one o'clock which was two hours after I arrived. Tonight I have to find my own dinner but last nights dinner was wonderful.  Sat between a French history teacher in middle school and a German  Male nurse who worked  a year at half pay so that he could take this year off with like pay to walk the Camino.  He started in Berlin and is camping most of the time as in the beginning there were not may places to stay like Spain has.  Both very interesting and the food was extremely good.  We were all seated at one very long curved table.  There were at least forty of us or more.
Mass thismorning did not have a sermon and a fun part was the sharing of one pair of eyeglasses by the priest and the lady who did all of the readings. The host was dipped into wine before being handed to us.  Nice custom which I've seen in several of the churches. Today's walk was very solo but pilgrims passed me on a regular basis.  About half way here I suddenly had a thought that I did not complete the paperwork on my pack for Jacotrans.  Fortunately I was here when they arrived and he held up my blank envelope.  I immediately got his five euros and apologized for my mistake.  We had a good laugh and I immediately did the one for tomorrow. Hard to believe this time next Sunday I'll be in Santiago.  My plan it to take another week and only pack bare necessities to hike to the ocean ar Muxia and then to Finisterre.  I'll take a bus back to Santiago. The map page today is for tomorrow..long day. 
Another day completed
.. buen Camino

DAY 36. FONFRIA

Day 36 and I'm in Fonfria tonight.  I was able to post a video of the cows walking past me this morning. Hope you enjoyed it.  I actually left in daylight this morning for my walk over the top of O'Cebreiro... it was a mile of a rather steep road to the village where I was able to visit the Church and then had breakfast before continuing on to the actual top where I stopped to take photos at Alto San Rogue with a large statute of a pilgrim.   I walked a total of 9.74 miles in 6 hours with two rest stops.  Arrived here at 1 PM.  Tomorrow I start with a very steep descent so I'll once again wait until morning to begin my walk.
This was a day of solo walking; sometimes I would go for a mile or more between pilgrims. I did meet a Sophia from south carolina; but it was a hi and bye type of meeting.  Tonight we will all be eating together in a very long table as we are out in the middle of the country.  Should be fun.  My sister Mary is winding down her trip; she will be flying home from London on next Wed.  So glad I brought my fleese jacket with me as it feel good early in the morning.  I'm still using just the drawstring stuff bag with a bottle of water clipped to the top.  May continue to do this all the way to Santiago.  When I take off the fleese jacket I tie it around my waist.  Enjoy your day.  Buen Camino

DAY 35. LAGUNA DE CASTILLA

Its day 35 and I've lost my post so will try to recreating it.  I tried to post some  videos and it did not work.  Last nights dinner at casa susi's was fantastic.  There were 14 of us representing ten countries. The food was all prepared from the garden except for the seasonings and the rice. The salad even had eatable flowers.
My day today began at 7 am when I left in the dawn light and 5 minutes later realized I'd left my walking poles.  Back to get them praying that someone was eating breakfast and would let me in the locked door. Thank goodness there was someone.
It was nearly 11 miles and took me 6.5 hours.  My mind was wandering twice and I missed the yellow arrows.  The second time I'd nearly given up when a group of Spanish pilgrims pulled me into their group and got me back on the trail.  In one village a group of women were doing individual prayers for pilgrims and it was an emotional high with tears rolling by the time I left the church. 
The last 3 miles were at about 45 degrees up, rocky and full of horse apples and cow pies.  Now you know why weremove our shoes before entering the sleeping areas.  Lots of work but inch by inch anything a cinch!  Arrived about 1pm
And am Staying at Laguna de Castilla; only 1.5 miles from the summit.  Tomorrow will be mostly downhill.
Today was cloudy for the first few hours and the sun for the rest.  Cow bells all the way  often accompanied by the sounds of the mountain river.  Its been a cool and very windy afternoon.  Sorry,  no videos..had a great one of the cows walking in front of our alburgue.
.... buen camino