CLIMBING THE EIFFEL TOWER

Saturday, April 13, 1996 Paris, France

Jim and I got up early and went to the church about 8 am, arriving in time for Mass. It was held up in the front part of the church which you generally can’t get into giving us another unique experience. After mass we spent some time in the Cathedral reading about the history posted on bulletin boards. Saw one relic and later found out that it is supposed to be cloth that was worn by the Virgin Mary.

We walked back to the hotel slowly, stopping to purchase postcards and two books, one on Chartres and another on the Chateaux of the Loire Valley for a client who is also my granddaughter's school teacher. They are doing a lesson on castles. Barbara was ready when we returned. We had the hotel call the three hotels on Ile Saint-Louis in Paris, but none of them had two rooms available. Then we drove to the Best Western in town (where we’d considered rooms the night before) and asked them to call the Best Western in Paris and make reservations for us. They didn’t have room, but recommended another hotel around the corner with the same type rooms and price, called the Hotel Saint-Philippe. We were trying to get one near the Arc De Triompre Etoile. No charge for the service and Jim was able to get gas while we did it.

On the road about 10 am and it's nice to know we have reservations in Paris being it is the weekend. Now all we have to do if find it! Arrived in Paris about 11 am and drove the complete circle as they’d given us instructions to turn off on “Toiller” and we couldn’t find it. However, we did find one called “Moiller”….finally had Jim look at the word and their “T” is an “M”. So, we got to do the whole circle or perimeter of Paris! Off on Ponte Moiller and headed towards the Arc De Triompre Etoile! There we had another hassle looking for Freidmann. But we found it!

By this time Jim needed a WC badly so we stopped at one of those on the street booths. Couldn’t make it work….so he used the one at the restaurant where I asked for directions to the street that we were looking for! Back in the car we found the hotel in short order! A very lovely hotel. Apparently it was a Best Western up until just recently. Unloaded, Jim took the car to an underground parking garage. Then off we went to learn about using the Metro (Subway) on our way to Barbara’s China and Silverware store.

Arrived in the area and stopped for lunch at a very crowded McDonalds. Managed to sit with a very nice French boy who spoke excellent English. He’d learned it in school. We’ve found that in Europe, everyone seats themselves even at your better restaurants (there are a few exceptions) and people think nothing of sharing tables with strangers when the place is full. Arrived at the China store and it was closed for a two hour lunch from noon to two. It was about 1:30 at the time. Jim kept looking and found a store that was open. The whole street was full of China stores. Delightful clerks and Barbara was able to purchase the China, Silverware and also a beautiful cherub angel for Diana made by Baracarat that she was looking for.

Back to the Metro, we headed for the Eiffel Tower for my climb. Barbara elected to wait below while Jim and I made the climb. I seem to be coming down with the sniffles. Jim is still feeling under par but Barbara is definitely on the mend. Climbed to the second level and then caught the elevator (which was closed in 1992 due to the rain) to the top. Views were wonderful even though the weather was overcast and you couldn’t see too far. Back down, we found the WC, got a coke and started back for the Metro. Barbara was reading her book while waiting and had found a store that deals in Antique Posters on Rue de Seine.

So off we went to find that store. Got to the area just fine by Metro. But I read the map and took everybody several blocks in the wrong direction. Barbara finally asked a policeman and he sent us back in the other direction. We stopped again for directions and they said we were headed in the right direction….finally found the street and then the challenge was to find the store, we had the street number but they didn’t run in order. But, we kept at it and finally found it after making our way through the local produce open air market. Lots of little art shops in the area. This one had been there forty years. Nice clerk who was eight months pregnant and Barbara found a great one with a Crow and a Large Champagne Glass.

We then headed toward the river, we were almost there already, and Ile Saint-Louis, the small island behind Norte Dame Cathedral. Went into the Hotel du Palma, where Jim and I first stayed in 1992. Barbara picked up a brochure. Some day she wants to stay there when in Paris. Walked down the street and had dinner at a very small Crepe Shop. Wonderful food, but Jim and I both felt terrible, the smoke was thick and the waiter (who we also think was the owner and the wife was the cook) forgot to serve Jim’s beer …but put it on the bill and totally forgot Barbara’s salad. I said they should hire a woman to waitress for them.

Went to the Metro, everyone was tired and short tempered and each trying to make the decisions on which Metro train to take. Jim told Barbara and I to “Shutup” which went over like a lead balloon! We ended up on the wrong train and had to get off and get back on going the other way. That quieted all of us down and we managed to get to the Arc de Triomphe Etoile and found the public drugstore which was the only place open to buy medicine for the colds. We walked back to the hotel from the Arc de Triomphe Etoile; which was good for all of us. Home about 11 pm. Beds are great and the rooms are very nice. No shower curtains but we each have a tub with a shower. I definitely have a head cold now, but not nearly as bad as Jim and Barbara’s. I started taking the cold medicine (powdered medicine plus Actifed tablets) which works like Sudfed the Pharmacist said. I also increased my daily dose of powdered Vitamin C and continued with the daily dose of two multiple vitamins that I've been taking on the whole trip.

CHÂTEAUX AND CATHÉDRALES

Friday, April 12, 1996 Chartres, France

Jim was up and down from about 4 am. I got up about six and washed my hair. We putts around until about 8 am when we called Barbara. She’d been awake since seven. We decided to get ready to leave at 8:30 am. Everyone seems to have slept well. The beds were great. Had the opportunity to work on the journal this morning and am all caught up! Left the hotel and went to see the Cathedrale St. Gatien which is in Tours. Very large and in the middle of a renovation. Many statutes were gone, probably out for repairs. Will probably be great in about ten years. There were also some Roman ruins that were exposed nearby. Apparently they’ve excavated in preparation to build a new building.

Then we started to tour the Loire Valley which is famous for it’s châteaux. Our first one was the Château d’Azay-le-Rideau. It was nice but state owned and many of the rooms were being repaired and therefore not opened for viewing. We were not very impressed. Then we started down the road to our second one.

Along the way Jim spotted a sign for the Mussee of Balzac, the famous French writer. We agreed to give him ten minutes and no more to find it. Down the country road we went. Had just about reached the end of his time when we spotted it. He took pictures as Barbara and I read a large map which was posted in the parking area. We discovered that if we continued on this road, we’d save some time getting to the next Chateau.

Also, we’d be seeing a much more scenic route along the Loire River. Balzac’s Museum was located at Sache. As we made a turn in the town of Montbazon, we saw a huge statute of the Virgin Mary atop some ruins…we thought possibly a medieval church. Stopped to investigate and stayed for lunch at a beautiful restaurant in town. Also spotted our first Century 21 “for sale” sign in this town.

Back on the road we found that we got lost in nearly every town because the road numbers were difficult to find. But, we’d just turn around, go back to where we’d last seen the sign and start forward again. We always managed to find our way! The next chateau was worth the entire day. It is the one that is built over the river Cher and is called Chateau de Chennceaux. It was built in the 15^th century and is still owned by private people. Absolutely stunning. We decided not to spoil the effect and go straight to Chartres from here.

On the road to the Autoroutes at Blois and then we whizzed pass Orleans and reached Chartres about 6 pm. We parked outside the Cathedral and walked to the Best Western Hotel, it definitely was not across the street (as it said in the book). It was about five blocks away. They didn’t have rooms for us on the same floor. So off we went to another hotel, didn’t like the smell of this one so we checked out another one! Took this one…has lots of “character” and is named Hotel du Bouef Couronne.

We headed back towards the car and a look at the inside of the church before dark. Barbara was very impressed with the color of the blue in the windows. Even close to dark on a cloudy day it is spectacular. Moved the car over, unloaded the bags. About this time, I used Barbara’s WC and couldn’t get out of the bathroom. The door handle was so close to the door jam, I couldn’t turn the handle. Jim had to come open the door! Gave us all a good laugh. Barbara has to turn the water on to fill the tank before flushing her toilet! Bed’s are extremely lumpy. Jim and I are sharing a very bad double bed. But, it’s only a couple of blocks from the Cathedral. Barbara has a great view of the church from her window.

We left for dinner at a nice restaurant we’d seen on the way back to the car. Saw a travel agency with wonderful things from India; cobra in basket, people, flying carpets, etc. all made from leggos. Went back to the hotel to call Wendy. Everything is fine, Jim is set for Porsche factory tour on Wednesday. Mary and Jay have rented an apartment in the city in San Francisco. Starting to rain lightly. Took umbrellas and went back up to see the church at night with the lights on it. A new experience for everyone. Then back to the hotel and our added experience of a “quaint” hotel!

SEARCHING FOR THE LIMOGES FACTORY

Thursday, April 11, 1996 Tours, France

We were up before 7 am and on the road by 8 am. I had a very strange bed last night. It was like sleeping on top of a giant pillow. The whole body just kind of sunk into it. Took a while to get out of town as we were headed out on the local roads to Limoges as the Autoroutes won’t take us there. We are going through lots of small towns on a winding, hilly two lane (one in each direction). We finally found a gas station with toilettes and got 70 franc’s worth of gas to use the WC! Jim just said to add that he’s had to cinch his belt up a notch.

He’s outside right now taking videos of a large estate that belongs to Clos du Mas, a very wealthy Frenchman who has the world’s greatest collection of Ferraris. The estate here has a race course and a beautiful home. Les Puy between Aubusson and Limoges on N141. He spoke to a mechanic who let him walk in and take some photos. It takes him about an hour to get to Paris from here in his Ferrari. He even has a private gas pump about half way. It would easily take several hours for the normal automobile and driver. This is his main home and he has other homes throughout Europe.

Back on the country road towards Limoges and the Porcelain Factory. Arrived about 11:30 am and spent some time in city. Found an information booth with a real live lady who gave us a city map and showed us the route to the one and only place we could see anything about the history and/or how they are made! A real disappointment that we couldn’t actually get into the real factory.

Took us a while but we finally managed to find the surface street to Toulouse instead of the Autoroutes as this was the location. Arrived and had lunch at the Buffalo Grill next door. Right out the old west! Complete with denim western style skirts on the waitress. Bread and a salad were served BEFORE she took the order! Barbara Jim had BBQ Ribs and I had BBQ chicken. Then off to the substitute for the porcelain factory. They specialized in Havalian China and had a small historical museum display in glass cases. They didn’t have Barbara’s pattern but she purchased two small egg shaped cases and I got a pendent for Priscilla and a small thimble for myself as a remembrance. Took a detour to town to check out another possibility. Then back on the road by 2 pm towards Tours. Arrived there about 4:30 pm.

While on the road we read the books and talked about which of the chateau’s we’re going to see tomorrow. There are about one hundred sixty chateaux in the Loire Valley. Barbara’s book recommends six and we are trying to limit Jim to three of those.

Arrived in Tours and found a very nice Holiday Inn next to the train station. One of the easiest to find yet! No Stress! It’s in Jim’s Entertainment Book and so we’re getting half price. They are taking us without the twenty-four hour notice that the book said they required. We do however, tend to get the less desirable rooms that are set aside for the program. Generally, less of a view and definitely tend to be noisy! But this one overlooks the train yards and being that they are electric we don’t mind as it brings back memories for all of us when we liked to watch trains as children. Also, the number of arrivals and departures reduced during the night.

Walked the streets, mostly shopping centers. Had fun in a Pier One shop. Checked out lots of eating places. We were looking for soup as we’d had a big lunch. Finally found a church after I used the “sign of the cross” to ask for directions. It was a neighborhood one with beautiful stained glass windows. We’ll find the larger one tomorrow morning before we head out to our miniature Tour of the Loire Valley. Walked back to one of the first restaurants that we’d seen, very close to the hotel. Sat at the window and had a nice supper…Jim had a mushroom omelet, Barbara and I had onion soup. Barb had a great tomato and egg salad while I polished off a strawberry sundae. Back at the hotel, Jim watched TV and I went to Barbara’s room and read her the Journal since Munich arrival. Took about an hour and half. Off to bed before 11 pm.

TRAVELING DAY IN FRANCE

Wednesday, April 10, 1996 Clermont Ferrand, France

Didn’t get rolling this morning until about 10:45 am; we were up early but it took time to fix our own coffee to go with the rolls we bought last night, pack and find a bank to cash checks. Made it to the Autoroutes and headed for Provence area. Finally decided to stay on the Autoroutes as the WC’s are hard to find on the country roads. We had lunch at a reststop. We thought that there was a restaurant at this stop, but didn’t see it until after we’d purchased sandwiches and cokes at the gas store. We’re seeing some very large churches along the way. They are built with the flying buttress style like Notre Dame. I has been typing on the computer all morning. Will finish this in the evening.

We’ve agreed to keep two separate kitties. One in the car for tolls and the other for miscellaneous fees in Barbara’s purse. That way it’ll be easier to keep track of the amount spend on toll roads. We are each putting the same amounts into each kitty for expenses....except for rooms as we each pay our own room fees each day. Drove much further than we’d planned today as we decided to get as close as possible to Limoges today to shorten the trip tomorrow. Jim wanted to try the Fimotel in Clermont. Barbara and I thought it was a motel, but Jim knew it was a hotel chain as he’d seen them before. They were in his International Entertainment book.

We decided to let him find it before we said too much to him. Stopped at the train station to get directions. Made one attempt based on a nice lady’s verbal and then went back and looked at the map. We’re finding that the Information Stations are closed and all they have available is a detailed map of the area. But it worked and we found the hotel. It was in a nice area, appeared rather new and the rate was great. Checked in and then headed towards a pharmacy to get some Nyquil for Jim. Barbara went along for some aspirin and nicotine gum. They asked for a prescription for the gun. She said she had one in the states but didn’t have it with her. The clerks went to the back and talked. They came back out and agreed to sell it to her without the prescription. Jim got what we thought was Nyquil, as we’d given them the box from Italy. What we actually got was Vicks cough suppressant. But, we were at the hotel before we found out what we’d bought.

We made a phone call to home, tried to put on credit card but ended up on the hotel bill. Wendy wasn’t in so talked with Priscilla who filled me in on the business. Jim gave her instructions to give to Wendy for called Circle Porsche to see if they can make arrangements for him to tour the factory in Stuttgart on next Wednesday. We’ll call on Friday to see if she made contact. Went down to the restaurant in the hotel and had a lovely dinner. Jim had ham and Barbara and I had veal. I had a salad which included a soft boiled egg with warm vinegar dressing. Actually quite tasty!

Off to bed about 10 pm. We have separate rooms but with a connecting door which we left open until lights out. We all watched a television show in French; a movie made for television about the mayor who was always solving the problems of the people and the priest is the father of the rich lady’s son. We all got a good laugh even though it was all in French. Made a decision to get up at 7 am and attempt to be on the road by 8 am. We’ll just make coffee in the room.

HILL TOWNS IN PROVENCE

Tuesday, April 9, 1996 Grasse, France FRANCE MONEY: 5.05 FRANC = $1.00

We left Santa Margharita about 10:00 am and drove to Portofino. A beautiful mountain road , very narrow and twisting and only about three miles. Unbelievable views from every angle. I put my head out of the sunroof with the video camera and tried to take pictures. Not much luck due to the speed of the car! Barbara didn’t go to sleep until about 3 am she said. The clerk came at one point and said her neighbors were complaining about the loudness of her TV set. She never went to breakfast. She said that she felt that our hotel and the restaurant we had dinner at last night were the worst of the trip. But that this was probably the most beautiful of all the towns we’d been in!

We arrived in Portofino and ended up at the top of a very narrow & steep dead-end. Jim had to back down! Very difficult requiring a lot of use of the hand brake as there were all kinds of obstacles on both sides of the street. But we got back down and found out that the road ends here! We had to turn around and go back through Santa Margharita Liguere to reach the Autostrassa. So we got to go back through the beautiful three mile stretch of road again and this time we found a space to stop for photos and videos.

Back on the Autostrassa we found one traffic jam after another! Plus, lots of long tunnels. We all decided that we’d had enough of tunnels. We’ve probably gone through at least fifty of them in the last two days. There were at least five that were over a mile long. Sometimes we would come out of one and go directly in another one. Our big goal today was to spend as many of the lire as we could. Jim ended up with about 200,000 lire left. Said he’s keeping it for his next trip to Italy! Barbara spent the rest of her lire on beautiful tile letters to put their name on the Palm Springs condo. I started to do the same but remembered the association will not allow it! Paid cash for everything including the last tank of gasoline!

We arrived in France at about 2:30 pm. We went through one of the very long tunnels as we left Italy and when we exited on the other side (it was over a mile) we were in France and they’d just finished having a cloud burst! Everything was very wet. We’d left the sun shining in Italy before we entered the tunnel. Barbara needed to use the WC and we stopped at the boarder. We knew we were in France when she came out and told us that she’d had to use the standup variety! Those and the circles instead of stop signs are very peculiar to France. Had rain off and on all afternoon….mostly light sprinkles here and there. New country and new money. The exchange rate is about 5.05 franc for $l.00. Barbara had a 200 Franc note that John had brought home with him about three years ago. We started using it for the tolls and it kept us going until we were able to cash some checks in Grasse when we stopped for the day.

Grasse is the perfume capitol of the world. They have museums and factory tours. It is a very old town built on the side of the hill inland from Cannes. We decided to bypass Monte Carlo and Nice as we’ve all seem both of them. This is really unique. Part of the town is full of immigrants and has become very run down, but most of it is still very well kept and quaint. It’s built on the hillside and has very narrow and twisting streets. Lots of little shops which Barbara could probably spend days going through. We found a beautiful Best Western Hotel at the top of the town called Hotel das Parfums. Also saw a Laundromat on the way into town and made for that as soon as we were registered. Found a different one near the center of the city and took turns going into the shops while we were doing a load of laundry. Jim scouted for local restaurants….Barbara wants French Onion Soup…and found a wide selection.

After finishing the laundry, and getting some money changed, we visited the different restaurants on the way back up the hill to the hotel until we found one that we liked. Had a delightful dinner sitting on cowhide upholstery in a room like a cave! Onion Soup and pizza were the faire of the day since we’d all had a large lunch at the cafeteria on the Autostrassa at about 2 pm. Back at the hotel we figured out how to work the TV’s and found two English speaking channels….one of which was CNN! Jim and Barbara both took Nyquil , a double dose, so they should both get a good night’s sleep and be in great shape tomorrow! They were getting on each other nerves this afternoon and evening! But, tomorrow should be better.

Jim took the Nyquil last night and slept through, but the pillow was very firm and his earplug jammed into his ear canal too far and he now has an ear infection. Barbara has started him on some of her antibiotics to hopefully clear some of the infection up or at least prevent it from getting worst. Tomorrow we plan to drive through Provence. A very historical area that Jim has read about for years. Can’t spend the time there that it really needs, but we’ll get an overview for future reference on trips to France. The book recommends taking a week to do it properly! Hope to stay in Lyon tomorrow night.