Living in Paris...visiting Les Halles

 

Today was a regular day…we stayed home until noon and then walked a block to the local Laundromat to do a load of laundry; our first on the trip.  We’ve each been washing out a few things   each night and it’s worked well.   But nice to actually use a washing machine!  And to wash and dry was only seven euros including the soap!

Our day has been one of relaxing and sorting through the suitcases to put some organization to the clothes.  I’m planning to send some things home with Jim when he leaves on the 12^th.  I always seem to bring more than I need. 

It’s pleasant here on our courtyard.  We sit at the kitchen table with an open window…no screens…sheltered by our window plants… working on our computers to find out what’s happening in the world around us.  No Television…just classical music on the radio.

We did take a break this afternoon about 3 pm.   

Walked to our Metro and rode to the Les Halles area on the right bank of the Seine River past the Louvre.   We got off at Chatelet and walked for about ten minutes through the huge station to the underground shopping mall of Les Halles.

This was the meat and produce wholesale market for all of Paris up until the 1970’s when it was moved outside the city limits.  Since that time it has had many problems and was not really a safe area for many years.  A few years ago they built a huge underground shopping center…it’s about three levels deep and now they are in the midst of a five year project to create a massive walking plaza above ground. 

It will truly be beautiful when finished.  On one side is the Paris Stock Exchange and on another the beautiful and very old Sainte-Eustache Cathedral.  We plan to go back on Sunday evening for a free concert before the 6 pm Mass.

Returning home we shopped at the local Boucheries and purchased a lovely roasted chicken and some potatoes that will make three meals for us over the next week.

Our friends John and Barbara Arnold have arrived in Paris…we will be meeting them for dinner on Thursday.

 Hope you enjoy the few photos in the slideshow: 

Serendipity Day in Paris

Out the door by 10 am we had a long list of chores that we wanted to do today.  Our first stop was at the Paris Rental Service that we have our reservations with for both the last part of September and also December.  I wanted to meet them personally and also finalize some of our move in and out plans.  So glad we had cell phones as we needed to call them when we reached their gate so that they could buzz us in to the office.

From there we continued east to find the hotel that our friends Barbara and John will be staying at for a few days; they arrive tomorrow and will start their French adventure with friends after a few days in Paris.  Along the way we stopped at the Eglise Saint-Etiene du Mont where the “Midnight in Paris” movie scenes were shot.  The church was closed but we’ll try to go back tomorrow around noon when they have a mass.  We located our friend’s hotel and left them a welcome to Paris note.

Continuing on we stopped at the Shakespeare and Company building to check out the old hotel that only has eighteen rooms…some with a view of Notre Dame and is in the same building.  Maybe someday we’ll be lucky enough to get a room in this delightful old charmer!

Stopped along the way to check out “flip flop” shoes for our daughter-in-law; she purchased a pair in 2010 and has worn them out!  Then took another look at Notre Dame from the left bank of the river before continuing on down along the Seine; sometimes up above and sometimes down along the river on the quai. 

We reach the Pont de Arts and again searched for our lock.  No luck…just too many of them but it’s fun to look.  They are so deep and convoluted we finally gave up again.  We noticed that someone took spray paint and painted over a large section; so graffiti on top of graffiti!  They have the locks on the lampposts and just everywhere.  At some point the city will have to do something as they are also beginning to put them on two other bridges.

Soon we were off to find our apartment that we have rented for a month in December/January.  We love the location; the area is full of art galleries.   We are on the left bank across from the Louvre Museum. 

We then walked to the Musee d’Orsey where we went to purchase tickets for a ride on the Batobus….yes a bus on the river that makes stops at eight stations between the Eiffel Tower and the Gare d’Austerlitz.  We decided to buy the annual pass that is 50% off since it’s half gone and only 35 euros; good until January 2^nd.  It only makes sense since we’ll be here in December also.  It would have been 15 euros for one day.  Boarded the boat and rode all the way to the Gare d’Austerlitz stop.

We walked over the bridge to the Gare de Lyon Station on the right bank as we had several items to take care of there.  First of all we went to the Metro and purchased a NAVIGO Pass that is good for ten years…then you refill it once a week for twenty euros and you can ride all the Metro trains and buses within central Paris.  We’ve already made seven trips by the end of today!  It will be well used now and in December/January.  Fortunately I’d planned ahead and had brought two small photos with us that fit perfectly on each of the two passes we’d purchased today.  Both require a photo to be permanently attached to be valid.   I had researched the Navigo Pass online and the Batobus card required the same size photo.  I’d brought two for insurance not realizing I’d need both of them!  And, they had to be about one inch square.

Next I went to the Reservation Desk to find out the information for purchasing the overnight train tickets for our trip to Italy at the end of the month.  Only 120 euros each for a four bed couchette coach from Paris to Florence.  It leaves at 5:45 pm and arrives in Florence at Campo Marte Station at 7:12 am.  Then we’ll get a bus to Siena.

In the meantime, Jim located the Luggage Storage area just in case we are unable to store our luggage for the day elsewhere between checkout and the time for the train.  This was not easy and was the hardest job today; but he finally located in down three flights of stairs. Not cheap but good to know that it is there.

We found the Metro and took a train to George V Station on the Champs de Elysees to check out new movies at the Lido Theatre…nothing looked good so back on the Metro and home for some grocery shopping and then dinner at the apartment.  It was 5 pm and we were starving!

After dinner we took the Metro back to the Batobus and rode all the way to the Eiffel Tower and back; enjoying the night lights just before we arrived back at our home dock.  There we saw that the dancing had begun at the four pavilions that are designed for this along the river.  There was one doing the tango…and some were very good; another was Salsa and then a third was busy with swing.  We didn’t have the right kind of shoes so only watched but may go back another night prepared to enjoy the dancing!

Home by Metro and it was after 10 pm before we arrived.  Another late evening.  I think we are going to take a day off tomorrow!

Hope you enjoy the slideshow: 

Sunday on Rue Mouffetard and The Louvre

Slept in on Sunday morning and walked out the door just before 11 am.  We walked a couple of blocks over to Rue Mouffetard, the street made famous by Julie Childs; it is a shopper’s delight.  We arrived just in time for 11 am High Mass at Saint-Medard that sits at the foot of the street.

After mass we emerged to the sound of music on the corner; a Sunday morning event where people enjoy good music, plus a bit of karoke using the song sheets that were passed to everyone.  And best of all everyone was welcome to dance on the cobblestones.  A few were regulars who were dressed in fishnet stockings and French berets but most were tourists like us who could not resist.  Check out my video on Facebook.  Yes, we did two fast dances and even got some applause from the crowd, but the video is of others enjoying the event.

Then we walked all the way up the Rue Mouffetard stopping along the way to listen to more musicians and inspect the shops with food; a different shop for each type, clothing and many restaurants.  We chose one for dinner before returning back to our apartment for lunch.

About 2 pm we headed out again and this time we took the Metro to the Louvre Museum and took advantage of the Free Day that happens on the first Sunday of each month.  Nearly all of the major museum take part in this event!  Jim was afraid it would be packed so we waited until midafternoon and walked right in.  Yes, there were lots of people but we never had to wait and with the exception of the Mona Lisa…and that is ALWAYS packed…we could easily see all of the things we wanted to visit. 

There was a special exhibit of work by Michaelangelo Pistoletto located throughout the Museum.  He is a living artist who creates interactive visual art.  Usually it is mirrors with a figure or figures painted on them and you become part of the art when you look at the mirror.   Interesting but not sure I’d pay a fee to see it!

One thing that happened during our time in the Museum was very interesting; Jim was explaining the techniques used by Da Vinci in a particular painting and I noticed that the gentlemen standing next to me kept moving closer and closer as he listened to Jim.  When we finished I turned and said “I have my own private tour guide” and he said “you are very lucky”.  I think he was Italian but understood and spoke English very well.  

Yes, I’m very lucky and Jim has taught me much about art over the years. 

We spent two hours touring the halls and I finally headed back to the apartment and left Jim to finish on his own.  We are both comfortable with traveling on the Metro; so with the added security of our cell phones we parted ways and each did our own thing. 

By 6 pm we were both back in the apartment; I’d spent some time in the park that is next door to our apartment before coming home.   Freshened up and then walked to the Le Mouff’tot Restaurant that was located directly across the street from the Hostel that my sister Mary and I stayed in back in 2009. 

The food was excellent and reasonable.  Jim had his duck again and I had lamb.  We enjoyed the family atmosphere in the restaurant and the owner made a point of talking with us several times.

A slow walk home, downhill all the way and by 8:30 pm we were snug in our apartment for the night.   

 Hope you enjoy the slideshow: