DAY THIRTY TWO ON THE CAMINO

Nearly eleven miles today in almost six hours.  No rain but expected 90% tomorrow.  Today was a tough 1500 ft descent that took us three hours.  Much of it was on top of rock. 

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We started the morning in the dark with our headlamps.  I walked today with Pauline from Chili who I met last night.  She has problems with blisters and knees
She started with no practice....she's young.  Tomorrow she is taking the train to Sarria and will walk from there.  She'd started in Leon.  But it was nice having a slow walker with me today.

We had some problems finding our Albergue Alea...but worth the trouble as it is very nice.  Shared a load of laundry so have clean socks for half the price.  Eating dinner here tonight.  Nice people and very clean and sheets and blanket for only 10 euro.  No sleeping bag tonight.

Solo tomorrow in the rain for ten miles..

Buen camino

 

DAY THIRTY ONE ON THE CAMINO

This was taken in light rain at La Cruz de Ferro early this morning.  This has become an important part of the Camino for pilgrims to leave a token representing reasons for walking the camino. 

I said goodbye to my pilgrim friend Kathleen from Canada at this point, she is who I have been walking with for the past seven days.  She has a ticket home on September 25 and must start walking many more miles each day to finish her Compostela journey.  I have to walk fewer miles each day and will carry my large backpack most days when I can.

Last night we had dinner with pilgrim friends where they served a vegetarian paella, delicious.  It was a cold night and they had a fire burning in the common area when we arrived back at our albergue.  Everyone was trying to get their laundry dry.

This morning we woke to fog and expected rain.  By the time we walked the two km to the iron cross at La Cruz De Ferro everyone was putting on their rain gear. 

Goodbyes were said and we continued to the top of the mountain in the rain..but no flies today.  I reached an elevation of 4906 feet today at the top and by the time I reached the village...still in the mountains...we were down to 3704 feet.


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Along the way I stopped for many photos even with the rain.  Once I offered to take a group photo and they turned out to be a group of family and friends from various states in the USA.  I saw them again as I entered the village, they'd stopped for a late breakfast.   It was nearly noon, eight miles and five hours after I began walking this morning.  I've now completed 337 miles on my journey.  The American group are well organized, various ages from college age to probably about sixty.  One leader who set the routes each day and reserved all of there rooms before coming to Spain.  That means that they are using private pensions and hotels. 

It's still raining outside and is getting worst by the hour.  Hopefully it will be dry tomorrow when I continue down the mountain for nine miles to the big city of Ponferrada.  Buen camino

Not the 5 to 10 euros a night in most cases in the albergue. Although if they are using dorms you can reserve and still get a 10 euro rate.  I asked id they were all walking together all the time and was told yes...they only walk as fast as the slowest member.  I did not reserve ahead for today's lodging and it's a beautiful new albergue that is run like a hotel. We don't have to be out of the room until 10 am.  And, breakfast is served until 10 am. In the usual place out by 8 am and  breakfast is before 7 am.  I feel like I'm living in luxury tonight even though I'm in an 8 bed dorm room at 10 euro for the bed.  It's called Albergue La Casa del Peregrine in El Acebo.

Buen Camino

 

DAY THIRTY ON THE CAMINO

Well it's been an interesting day.  We slept in as the bus didn't arrive until 9:30 am.  Yes, we rode the bus along with a dozen other pilgrims to Astorga and then took a taxi to Rabanal. ..knocking 30 miles off of our journey. 


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One reason  was because this is the area when the American woman disappeared last March.  Well early this morning we learned that her body was discovered yesterday and the main suspect has confessed. Hundreds of police in the area.  Secondly, my walking partner is running out of time and needs to skip ahead so this worked.

We got off of the bus in astorga and discovered we needed to take a taxi for the second leg.  So we played tourist with our backpacks on and visited the cathedrale and then the Gaudio palace.  Had some lunch and at noon got a taxi to Rabanal.  There we got out at the church, made a visit and then started the 3.6 mile route up the mountain.  It took us two hours to reach the top on the very rocky path and it was full of flies that screamed at our face the entire way.

But the reward was the village of Foncebadon at the top.  Totally abandoned it is slowly being rebuilt and at the top near the  church we found a brand new ...one year old....albergue La Cruz de Ferro that is very modern and wonderful.

Have done our wash and showered.  Now gathered in the common Room near the stove to do our wifi.  Later we're walking into the village for dinner.  We have five Americans and a woman from Syria walking to thank God for her Christian faith. 

Weather wise very cold in morning and evening but hot in the afternoon.  Looked like rain this morning but cleared. 
Buen Camino

    

DAY TWENTY NINE ON THE CAMINO

Time is winding down, pilgrims I started this journey with are beginning to arrive in Santiago de Compostela for their completion.  Jim and I won't arrive until October 8th.  But we are going to enjoy the last 100 km at a very relaxed pace.


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Last night in Leon the mass lasted for an hour as the nuns sang their vesper at the beginning of the mass.  Beautiful but I'm sure confusing for some.  The pilgrim blessing just before ten o'clock was also lovely but again confusing with trying to incorporate all the different languages.

We said goodbye to our Irish friends after dinner as they are stopping here in Leon and will continue again next year.   We  were incouraging them to get at least one night in a Parador Hotel on the next segment which they will finish in Santiago. 

Today we all woke up after a long night of sleeplessness..there was a party in the plaza outside our windows until after 3 am.  We had to be in by 10:30 pm but the locals were enjoying themselves.

We'd planned to bus to the edge of the city but walked instead.  We saw some beautiful parts of the city that we would have missed and the view of the skyline of the city from a distance was great.

The day was a long fourteen mile walk that took us seven hours as we made several stops.  It was mostly a gravel path separated from the highway that we followed. 

Tonight we are in Villadangos del Paramo in the municipal albergue. .. very nice.  Tomorrow we are going to take the bus and skip two sections.  We chose these as this is where they are still looking for the American pilgrim who disappeared last April.   It will be 31 miles by bus...the first part is easy as it is on a main highway.  The second part is questionable as it will be on small mountain roads we think.  Always an adverture.  So glad I have Kathleen with me as she is fluent in Spanish.

The afternoon has sailed by and it's nearly dinner.  We have the very best wifi for days so I'm trying to add a couple of photos from today.  Buen camino

   

DAY TWENTY EIGHT ON THE CAMINO

Last night I shared a dinner with eight other pilgrims, wonderful times and great stories.  Bed was in the municipal albergue and we had about 32 people in our room.


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No sleeping in this morning.  Those who were walking all the way in to Leon were on the road early.  We decided to follow the guide book and enjoyed breakfast before catching the bus for twelve miles in to the large city of Leon.  From the bus station we walked into the city center and toured the cathedral with our backpack...yes, I carried mine today; before walking to the albergue Santa Maria run by nuns and located in a Monastery.  The women are on the first floor and the men on the second.  No sharing toilets and showers tonight.

We have a mass at 7 pm, pilgrims dinner at 7:30 pm and then a special service at 9:45 pm for blessing the pilgrims before bed and lights out at 10:30.

I walked with Kathleen to the train station today and she purchased her train ticket from Santiago to Madrid.  Eventually she must cut out a few days so that she will have time to do all of the 100 km required to receive her certicate in Santiago.  When that happens I once again will look for a new walking partner.  Monika, my first, reached santiago today in time for the pilgrim Mass at noon.  I shared her video of the mass on facebook for you.  Katia is a day ahead now and must also begin to skip ahead like Kathleen to make her goal.   Injuries for all three have allowed me to enjoy them but also caused them to have to change their schedules.  It's a jouney full of surprises.
Buen camino

 

DAY TWENTY SEVEN ON THE CAMINO

Today I logged mile 300 as we walked 12.64 miles in six and a half hours including several stops. One of our pilgrim friends walked for two hours by herself in the wrong direction when a spanish man stopped and asked her if she was walking the camino?  He told her she was walking away from the trail.  He then drove her back to the trail.  Fortunately we were at that location and then added her to our family for the walk into Mansilla de Las Mulas where we are all staying at the municipal albergue. ..very nice and we three combined to get a load of laundry done in the machine.


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Along the road today we passed a french couple with a pair of donkeys that have walked from their home in Gras in the south of France.   We also lightened Kathleen backpack by leaving a pair of her sandals on a camino monument along with a sprig of yellow flowers...probably a weed but pretty.

We're all enjoying the late afternoon after fixing blisters,  showers and a light lunch feom Anante food stash....we all carry snacks with us. Tonight Kathleen and I are going to find a pilgrims ten euro meal and enjoy it.

Last night we were the only ones in our albergue and we slept late ... until 7:15 am in the very quiet building. 

Tomorrow we are following the recommendation in the guide book and taking the bus into Leon.  If you walk it is all through an industrial area.  It will be nice to see the cathedral again.

Buen camino

  

DAY TWENTY SIX ON THE CAMINO

It was a short day..we left at 8 am after working on Kathleen glasses....she broke the bridge yesterday and we found crazy glue but it didn't work.  Have now used tape again on them.

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The day was along a highway with light traffic...but on a gravel path separated from the road and lined with young plane trees that gave us good shade from the  hot sun.  We made three rest stops along the way and arrived five and a half hours later in the farming community of El Burgo Ranero...11.03 miles making a total of 292.78 miles to date.  Breakfast this morning in the monastery was interesting ..6:30 to 7 am.  Silence because the nuns were still sleeping after being up during the night praying.  Coffee or tea...one cup only and 2 small muffins in a package.  But it got us started for the day.

Once on the road we enjoyed our walk and saw along the way a seventeenth century church, a Vineyard with the grape vines like bushes with no support system.  Several fields with scarecrows and we think a huge field of aspergus.

We didn't see as many pilgrims today but there was usually a few in front and back but far enough away to find it comforting to be walking with Kathleen .  I know in a few days she will have to leave me as she has to be on Madrid for her flight home by September 25th. 

But the camino continues to provide me new friends to walk with but must admit Katia and Kathleen have been extra special camino angels because they are both able to converse with the Spanish people.  Katia is now miles ahead of me.

Our stop for the night is a small farming community and we are sitting at the local bar with farmers as they now are playing cards. One is hard of hearing and speaks very loudly.  But we have wifi for the price of a glass of wine so we quietly work on cell phones and ignore the voices. 

We will probably come back for dinner...we only have two choices of bar/restaurants and we'll have the 10 euro pilgrim's meal. 
Buen camino

 

DAY TWENTY FIVE ON THE CAMINO

I'm with three wonderful ladies in a four bed dorm in a former benedictine monastery.   One from Holland, one from Italy and Kathleen who I walked all day with from Canada...we all speak English.  There is also Thomas who I see about once a week, a french lady my age, an English gentleman who is riding a bike in sixteen days, and Peter from Australia who was at the casa rural with us. Plus an assortment of other pilgrims.

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We are at the Monasterio de Santa Cruz in Sahagun.  It was a 14.66 mile walk for seven and half hours including four rest stops.  The weather was very warm today and we felt the hot sun on our backs.

A 7:30 am start, arriving at 3 pm.  Tomorrow should be shorter.  I'm still two days ahead of the schedule I set for myself.  Today was nice as we had several villages to walk through where we could stop to rest and take off our shoes.

I met Kathleen yesterday and we have enjoyed walking together.  Last night she broke her glasses during the night and in the morning we used duct tape for a temporary fix.  Tonight we found crazy glue and hopefully she can fix them until she gets home...she needs them for everything.

This afternoon I went to the museum on the hill in a former Franciscan monastery.  We also were presented with a beautiful certificate saying that we had reached the half way point on the camino.  A very good day.  Buen Camino 

 

DAY TWENTY FOUR ON THE CAMINO

Yesterday I had an opportunity to be a Camino Angel to someone.  I've had so many that it was great to be on the giving end for a change. 


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A nice gentlemen came up to me and asked when I was returning to California; surprised I responded not until October.  He started to walk away and I asked him why did he want to know.  He said that if i was going soon he was going to ask me to call his daughter in Los Angeles to let them know that he was okay when I got home.  Long story short I texted his daughter and she responded back immediately. They had not heard from him since early August when he'd left for spain.  She texted him three photos of the wedding that'd happened just before he left...before they'd gotten the photos. He was in tears and the family was elated to hear he was okay.  He is 73 years old and born in spain near santiago.   Lived in many places in the world but now in LA.    Has been away from the church for many years and has recently reconnected to his faith and is making this journey to thank the Lord for bringing him back to the church.  He is carrying a bible and another book in his pack...extra pounds.  But no cell phone.  It was a special blessing for me that he asked the question.  Katia switched albergues because two known snores checked in....for some reason I felt I should stay where I was and now I know why.  There is a saying on this journey that the camino provides when you have a need.   It's proving true many times over during this journey.

Last night at 7 pm until nearly 8 pm we had a young man perform classical music on the guitar.  Haunting and beautifiul.  Then a high mass followed by a personalized blessing for all the pilgrims.  And there were many of us as the next town was 17 km with nothing inbetween.  It was like a reunion, everyone was there.  I saw many people I have not seen in days.  I passed on the 10 pm soup and got a good night's sleep

Up early this morning I was out the door in the dark along with many others.  As we left the city the day was dawning and before we knew it we began to shed jackets as the sun became hot on our backs in a cloudless sky.  I was walking solo but never alone.  Some that I knew slowed and walked with me for awhile before they moved forward. 

This trek is 17 km of Meseta desert with three resting stops.  None with toilets, the second one had coffee and some food.  The trees that existed were across a ditch and impossible to get to.  There were two barns that were fenced off.  But we were forewarned about conditions in our book

It was great to come over the hill  and see our village nestled in the valley.  Yes, my backpack was waiting for me.  I took advantage of the sunshine and paid to wash my sleeping bag, jackets and clothes.  Will be great to sleep in a clean bag tonight.  We even have a swimming pool and many of.the younger people are swimming.  Tonight we'll all walk 50 m up the road to a pilgrims dinner.

Buen camino

  

How to see photos

You can find photos on instagram under marthajansen and on Facebook if you friend me.  So sorry I haven't been able to post photos on the blog as I usually do.

DAY TWENTY THREE ON THE CAMINO

Hard to believe that Jim will be here with me in only twenty more days.  Today is my last day of walking with my current camino angel Katia.  She has been a wonderful companion for the past three days.  But she has to finish her camino journey  by September 25th and must start walking more miles each day than I am comfortable doing.  She's been like a  daughter to me.


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We left at 6:15 am in the dark for our long day. We arrived nearly seven hours and 16.86 miles later in the town of Carrion de Las Condos.  It was level walking on trails bordering a river, a canal and sometimes roads but rarely on a road itself.
In Villalacazar de Sirga we visited one of the main churches of the Knights Templar, the Santa Maria la Blanca XIII..

It was hotter as the day progressed...still clouds but not as many as yeaterday .  But we survived and are looking forward to tonight when we will have a guitar concert at 7:30 pm, mass at 8 pm followed by singing by the nuns.  At 9 pm they will serve a supper of soup before bed.   Buen camino

  

DAY TWENTY TWO ON THE CAMINO

Started out at day break about 7:15 am.  Lights were still on for wonderful photos.  I felt something was missing S we walked down the stone canyon between shuttered homes and suddenly I realize I didn't have my walking sticks.  I had to go back about four blocks to retrieve them before we finally left town.


The walk today across the Meseta included one rather long hill and then after walking the ridge it was a long steep downhill of 18% grade all with concrete.   We descended using our poles doing a zig sag pattern.  At the bottom there was a memorial of some killed on this descent ....probably on a bicycle... in 2014.


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Once off of the hill it was a long, flat and shade less journey for many hours.  We found fields of sunflowers ready for harvest.  Fields of corn ready for harvest and fields of stubble from the recently harvest hay that is now stacked high in the fields. 

We squeezed to the side of the road to let a huge herd of sheep complete with a donkey, dog and shepard pass us by.

The weather was wonderful, cold wind and warm sun with many clouds that shielded from the heat on our backs.  I wore my fleese jacket all day and most of the day my windbreaker on top of it.  I also wore my buff today for the first time..helped to tame my hair in the wind. It's a popular head covering on the camino.

We're staying in a wonderful Casa Rural "En El Camino" in the village of Boadilla del Camino.   But in the bunk room for 7 euro a bed.  And we just might have it to ourselves as Katia asked about how many because she is sensitive to snoring.  We had a late lunch as our early pilgrim dinner and I had lentils soup for the first time.  Delicious.  The second plate was pork the was so tender you could cut it with your fork plus a small salad.  Bread and a bottle of wine...wonderful meal. 

We're going to walk the town now...splurged and combined our laundry that they did for us so we're set for another day early tomorrow morning.  It going to be a longer walk but all on level roads.   Buen Camino

   

DAY TWENTY ONE ON THE CAMINO

Last night we had a fabulous meal at the El Molino Casa Rural.  Five courses ending with our choice from a tray of liquors.  There were seven of us, 2 spanish, 2 Americans and 3 aussies.  It lasted for two hours.  Katia was the linguist for all of us as she kept the Spanish couple from Valencia fully involved in the conversation.   The peacock came to visit in the late afternoon and the rooster magically stopped crowing before dinner.   The winds were whipping our clothes dry and slamming doors all afternoon and continued through the night.  A second night of fresh sheets and towels as Katia and I shared a double room with twin beds.

Morning came early as we gathered back in the dining room for a Continental breakfast before climbing into the cars that quickly drove us the six miles back to the camino where we once again began walking about eight o'clock this morning.

For the first time I wore my fleese jacket under my windbreaker as the cold wind was still blowing as we headed out across the Meseta for a five hour walk over twelve miles of trails and paths along roads in some spots.  We passed several churches, the ruins of a convent that brought thoughts of the extensive ruins that we saw in the northern parts of England last spring. 

We are very fortunate weather wise as the massive clouds continue to give us shade as we continue our way across this expanse of spanish desert that is normally scorching the backs of the pilgrims as they spend days crossing this region.  Hopefully the weather will continue to be gentle for us.


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I'm continuing to enjoy the company of Katia, my pilgrim friend from the USA who is able to converse in Spanish for us.  A blessing and she is truly a Camino Angel for me.  We will eventually split as her time schedule is much shorter than mine and she will need to walk longer days to reach Santiago for her flight home before the end of September.  For now I give thanks each night that she is willing to spend time with and walk with someone nearly double her age! 

We arrived in the village of Castrojerez about two o'clock and checked into our alburgue where we are again in a dorm room with ten people; but only 6.50 euros per bed.  The shower was cold but it motivated me to shower faster!

We ate a pilgrims lunch at 3 pm rather than the late dinner, so we are in for the night.  During lunch I saw the two frenchmen who I shared a meal with three nights ago.  They had just arrived and were looking for a place to stay.  It was nice to chat with them for a few minutes.  After lunch we spent several hours this afternoon at the Hospital De Alma, a house that is devoted to giving space to pilgrims to meditate and refresh their soul in a magical space dedicated to love and healing. 

One of many verses on the walls under photos was "Never walk the road laid out for you as it will only lead you where others have gone".  Each designed to give you things to think about.

Tomorrow is another walk of about fourteen miles.  It's dark until after 7 am so we'll probably leave just before 8 am.  Buen camino

   

DAY TWENTY ON THE CAMINO

Today I completed 213 miles of the 500 miles  that I will walk by October 8th.  A milestone of sorts.  We also began walking in the Meseta; a desert like area that we will be crossing for several days to come.  We are fortunate in that we are having cooler weather during this time.

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Our day started early at 7 am as we headed out of the city of Burgos.  Loved taking photos of the city with the lights still on.  It was several miles before we actually left the city limits.  I'm walking with Katia who I met on my third day.  Interestingly today we met the young couple who were in the same Pension that night we first met, on the road.  Always fun to met someone again but that a big part of the camino.   Katia and I are going to walk three days together and then we'll see.  She is 40 years old and definitely a faster walker than me so I have to pick up my pace to stay with her.  She is originally from Brazil and has no probably with the language.

Our first five miles was very level but after we stopped for breakfast we hit the hills and the beginning of the Meseta.  Along the way we discovered a couple who has walked over seven thousand km in the past year walking from Turkey to Santiago.  He is from Portugal and his wife who is maybe five feet tall at the most is Spanish.  They each have a cart with wheels that they push or sometimes pull with a harness around their waist.  Also have two tiny dogs.  Katia spoke their language and got the whole story.

By 12:30 pm we'd arrived in Hornillos del Comino.  My backpack was waiting at an albergue where I'd made a reservation.  I'd told Katia about the Casa Rural El Molino that is located near the village.  I'd called last night but gave up because of language difficulties.   No problem...she called and got us a booking.  They would pick us up in town as soon as I got my bag.  This is about six miles out of town and was a Vinyard at one time.  The owners are the parents of the girl who met and eventually married the grandson of Martin Sheen during the filming of the movie "The Way".   More expensive than usual but then we're spoiled by the special prices for the pilgrims.

Interesting fact is that we now think that the grandson and his wife own a  Casa Rural right in town and we could have stayed there and probably cheaper.  But we do have sheets on the bed, fresh towels and our own bathroom.  We are sharing a room.

We've done our laundry and have it "blowing in the wind" to dry.  Doing our journals and waiting for the dinner at 7 pm.    There are seven of us and most seem to speak English.

The wind is blowing and the prediction is for rain tomorrow...so we need your prayers.   It will be a long 14 miles if it's raining.  Buen camino

  

DAY NINETEEN ON THE CAMINO

Left in pitch black darkness at 6:30 am


With my head lamp on.  Within half mile I found four more and they were thrilled to join me as we walked along the road to the first town. They only had small flashlights.  I really had to pick up my pace but was worth it for the company.  By the time we reached town it was daylight.   Soon we were off the road and on a rocky path headed up hill. At the top there was a large  cross that we all stopped at for photos.  Then downhill to the next town.  A nice girl started walking with me.  A nurse from Seattle originally from Wisconsin .  We walked together for over an hour.  Stopped in next town for some breakfast and then everyone put on rain gear as we left.  Sprinkling lightly and never got too bad.  It did keep the day cool for walking.

I saw the turn off for the river route into Burgos but someone had put some  arrows going to the right and a huge group in front of me followed them.  Didn't want to be alone so followed the crowd.  I knew I'd made a big mistake when I saw the airport...but too far to go back.   So the long walk around the airport and then through the outskirts of the  large city of Burgos.

But at least it was cool walking even though the concrete was harder than the dirt paths.  Met an Austrilian couple
And a Holland man who all made the wrong decision.



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I finally turned on my Navigation apt that Jane had shown me in England...put in the name of the hotel and it took me right to the hotel.  They have a reduced price for pilgrims...only 35 euros and I sleep tonight between sheets and have my own bathroom.  The rooms are very tiny and in a separate section of the hotel but it's right in the old section near the river and an easy walk to the cathedral.

It was nearly 14 miles in just over five hours making my total to date 199.59 miles.

After settling in and washing out a few things I set up my reservations for tomorrow.  The hotel clerk made them for me.  Then it was out the door to explore the city.  Slowly walked to the cathedral which is the second largest in Spain.  Took the tour and enjoyed seeing it again.  Yes, we were here in 2004 on our driving trip.

About five o'clock I met Katia from Georgia in the cathedral square.  We met on my 3rd day of walking.  She stayed two nights so that we could reconnect and now we'll finally get to walk a piece of the camino together.  We waited a few minutes for two of her pilgrim friends from Budapest and then we all enjoy afternoon tea and cake while we visited.

Tomorrow well leave at 7 o'clock and start our journey to Hornillos del Camino. ..about 13 miles and into a new climate zone known as the Meseta.  Flat and very arid, but we're lucky as the prediction is for cooler weather the next few days.

Thanks for joining our journey...buen camino