DAY TWELVE OF THE CAMINO

Last night was very special.  The man from Holland invited several of us to join him for dinner at the bar near the church that serves the pilgrims dinner.


Link to Picasa web album:   https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/DayTwelveOnTheCamino825?authuser=0&feat=directlink




Afterwards we all walked to the church for the 8 pm mass.  It was in the chapel and at the end we were all invited up to the altar and the priest first spoke to each of us to find out where we were from.  Then we were individually blessed with holy water and then he individually laid hand and prayed over each of us.  It was totally unexpected and made me think that God had a plan when he had me stop in Viana.

Have arrived in Navarrete this afternoon .  I'm at Albergue El Cantato....very nice and my backpack was here when I arrived about 2 pm after a 7 hour walk of 16 miles.  That makes 127 to date.

I left about 7 am and had company most of the day between two couples in our albergue last night.  One from Ohio....but spent the most time with an.english couple.  We're doing dinner and then 8 pm mass together tonight.  Unfortunately tomorrow is their last day...they are doing segments. 

A lot of the Walk today was on very nice paths with shade here and there.  The tough part was at the end of our hike but through vineyards as we climbed towards Navarrete when I am spending the night.

Today we saw many vinyards as we are in the wine region.  I tasted the blackberries...they are small and tart.  I saw the first stork nest on top of a power pole...we will be seeing lots of them as we go east.

The city of Lograno  was very large. .stopped for breakfast and to visit the cathedral. ...and then got lost but asked enough questions and found my way.

A good day over all...
Buen camimo

 

DAY ELEVEN ON THE CAMINO

Well, it's been a humbling experience today.  I slept really good with earplugs and didn't even hear all the others come to bed  (they were mostly spanish and they probably didn't even begin dinner until I was asleep)...then the cell phone alarms started going off at 5 am so I got up, packed and headed out.

It was 6:30 am and pitch black for about half an hour but I put on my headlamp and headed out with my  backpack.  Because so many were also getting up I knew there'd be a string of pilgrims passing me soon. 


The sunrise was especially beautiful this morning, but the brisk winds kept it a very cool walk.  At the top of the first ridge there was an interesting collection of rock memorials with prayer sheets, photos and other personal items held down with rocks.  There was also a coffee truck near here as we crossed a highway in the area.  In fact, we actually did more highway walking then usual today.

Along the way I was passed by many camino friends from past days.  Some from Friday night and several Italians from the birthday party.  Many stopped to make sure I was okay.  I'm very recognizable with my gray hair and pigtails.  One kind gentleman said that I was an inspiration to many of the pilgrims.  But, they could tell I was struggling more than usual today.  If I tossed my sleeping bag and another five pounds I'd be fine... but I like suggling down in my bag early in the morning when it's cool.  And it's good to know that I have the supplies and creature comforts so decision made that unless it's a less than five mile day. .. the big backpack is going by Transport.  I'll drink one less beer and sleep in large dorms to pay for the cost...well worth it...7 euros...tomorrow it goes down to 6 euros and after Burgos...5 euro and by the time I meet Jim in Sarria it will only be 3 euros per day.

But back to my journey today..
I'd planned to walk 20 km...about 12 miles...to Logrono.  I made it to Viana in 4 hours...seven miles.   I dropped my backpack next to the first abergue I saw at 10:30 am and planned to wait until it opened.


Link to Picasa Web Album:   https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/DayElevenOnTheCamino824?authuser=0&feat=directlink

I was lucky as the owner came out with her son in the first 10 minutes.  Using sign language...she let me put my stuff inside and told me to come back at noon.

I spent the next two hours exploring the old city center.....up the hill...which was a snap without my gear.  Beautiful church that I will go back to this evening after dinner in a bar that offers a pilgrims 10 euro dinner as they have a 7:30 pm mass.

I was very fortunate as this is a lovely new albergue and several English speaking guests...including two recent college graduates from Florida.  We have a dorm room with eight bunk beds ...16 people....for only 8 euros a bed.  There are also several private rooms.  But no dinner.  They do have a Continental bkf for 3 euros but I find I walk better on an empty stomach.

To transport you have to have  a reservation so they know where to deliver your bag.  The albergue is very helpful setting up the next night and arranging the transport.  Also the municipal albergues do not take reservations so I'm using the private ones which are generally cleaner and the same  price.

Viana is an active town with 4000 residents.   The Camino passes through the historical center which is much the same as it was when medieval pilgrims were walking through.  Cesare Borgia was linked to this town during the reign of Pope Alexander VI...he was his iligimate son.   This was the 15th century.

There is the newer church and then the ruins of another named for st. Peter.

Another chapter closed...buen camimo

DAY 10 ON THE CAMINO

Last night the dorm completely filled by 4 pm..  we were one American (me) several who spoke English very well including an Italian girl who works in Philadelphia.  4 germans,  1 from  Argentina and the rest all from Italy.


Link to Picasaweb Album:   https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/DayTenOnTheCamino823?authuser=0&feat=directlink

About 5:30 I walked over to the bar to see about dinner.  He said not until 6:30 so I got a glass of wine and settled in.  Soon Jorge arrived and sat down to talk.  It's his 36th birthday and the italians are coming over to celebrate.  He asked me to join them and of course I was delighted. 

The bar had many more than expected so we took the late seating and they  brought us snacks and more wine.  Actually I think Jorge picked up the cost.  We all had a great time and finished up just before ten which is our curfew ... they lock the door. .. and that's also about the time that the very loud thunderstorm rolled in.  A fun night and we all ate the 10 euro pilgrim meal that included a large salad..pasta or chicken with French fries. Dessert was a choice of flan or ice cream and of course more wine. 

I woke up about 5 am....2 were up and on their way by 6 am in the dark as they were walking the full 40 km to Logrono.
Soon others were stirring and by 7 the young German girl  left with me.  She was carrying a 50 lb pack and she still out walked me .   We missed the first directions and after half a mile uphill decided we'd missed something and walked back.  So we got an EXTRA mile today.  But a Texas lady also missed it so we were not the only ones.

It was a day of rolling roads through farmland with no shade.  We didn't see our first town for 8 miles.  By then the sun was very hot but a good breeze kept us cool.  Twice I caught the German girl when she stopped to rest and then she'd pass me again.

The town was Los Arcos, a beautiful and very old town.  They had a festival last weekend and had a running of the  bulls through the streets.    Would have been fun to see if I'd been walking faster.  My Arizona people who started with me were there...my new friend Monika who walked with me the first two days is in Burgos today...I keep plodding along.

But, I did stop and join the Germans for an early lunch, a slice of a camino favorite...Tortilla  de Pattaya ... like an omelet filled with potatoes.  Delicious.  We were in the plaza of the church and although no mass, I did enjoy a visit and a short concert being played on the massive organ.

Back on the road for another nearly 8 km where I reached the Albergue Sonsol where I had reservations and my backpack.  Opps...the backpack had not arrived .

Phone calls were made and within ten minutes it arrived.  The Texas lady said her pack did not arrive until 11 pm yesterday so I was more than a little concerned.  Tomorrow I'll be carrying it again as planned. 

Showered, laundry done and I'm listening to the arrivals...we are one big room with 24 beds...12 bunks.  I'm in a Lower bunk up against a wall which is nice.

Buen camimo

DAY NINE ON THE CAMINO

Dinner last night was wonderful, beautiful presentation....I think they had a chef in the kitchen.  4 courses. .. the main dish was piayia but vegetarian. .. totally unexpected but delicious.  We didn't sit down until 8 pm so it was a late night.

This morning I left my backpack at the hotel when I left at 7 am...for 7 euros it will magically appear at the end of my day at a prearranged albergue .


Link to Picasa web album:   https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/DayNineOnTheCamino22?authuser=0&feat=directlink

It was a lonely walk but so easy...didn't see a soul until I arrived in Estella an hour later.  Had one spooky thing ... as I was approaching a factory there was a red light flashing and a loud siren blaring.  Not a soul in sight so after a short stop I quickly walked past.

When I entered Estella I saw the French couple who was at the table with the American and me for dinner last night.  We took photos for each other before they walked on.  I did have a new experience today...I actually walked pass someone...an over weight older man with a backpack. 

As I started up into the hills after leaving the city I notice a winery.  It was the one that has a treat for pilgrims..free wine or water.  But I was too early and they had not turned on the tap for the wine so it was only photos and water.  The Italian pilgrim man kept trying to get some wine from the tap. 

So enjoyed my weekend walk and will do the same tomorrow.  I've decided to use the transport each weekend since I'm not planning on any days off.  At least that the plan today.

I reached Azqueta by 10 am and the albergue was not ready.  So I went to the bar and waited until noon.  When I went back they still were not ready but my backpack had arrived.  When I viewed the rooms I was very disappointed.  So I apologized, put my backpack on my back and walked the mile straight up the mountain to where I'd orginally planned to stay.  They had room and it's very nice.  I'm on the third floor in a 12 person room.  So far only 3 of us....me and 2 germans.  The college girls speaks beautiful English.   And is very good to translate everything we say to the older woman.  But they speak German mostly.

There is a church right next door...not open but they ring the bells.  Beautiful wedding when I arrived. 

It was very overcast this morning and very muggy...but so far none of the predicted rain. Tonight's dinner will be the pilgrim meal for ten euros at the bar about a block away. 

What appears as a large rocky outcrop at the peak of the mountain ... We're just under it ... and from the town you can see that it's actually the ruins of a chateau that goes back to the first century.

I'm enjoying the afternoon and the forever views out our window.  Showered, laundry done and blogs finished.  And the owner helped me reserve tomorrow so my bag is all set to go to Sansol..a village outside of Torro del Rio.  That's about 7 km passed Los Arcos...my big city that I will walk through tomorrow.  I plan to be in Logrono on Monday night.

Today I walked 8.77 miles in 4.5 hours.  My total miles to date is 90.32 miles. Tomorrow I will pass the 100 mile mark.

Thanks for joining my journey. 
Buen Camino

DAY EIGHT ON THE CANINO

Enjoyed dinner last night with the couple from Holland.  They are near Rotterdam and have ridden their bikes from there to st.jean pdp.  Lively couple who are camping whenever possible.  They will go to Santiago and then to the coast and south into Portugal before flying home.


Link to Picasa Web Album:  https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/DayEightOnTheCamino21?authuser=0&feat=directlink

It was a good night even with 20 people in one room.  The church bells woke us up early and we were all out the door before sunrise which was good as it was a very HOT day with hardly any shade.  Plus there were a few steep climbs.  I ran out of water about 2 km before the next town and learned a good lesson to always carry extra water.  I missed the bar in one town where I'd planned to use the WC , so it was behind the olive tree for me.  Saw blackberries today and sunflowers along with vineyards.

I talked to two Americans. ..one from Maryland broke her arm in Madrid but is still walking her Camino with a day pack and transporting her big pack.  The second American  woman was younger but walking slower because of many blister issues.  She is from the San Jose CA area.   She is in the same room with me tonight in la casa magica in Villatuerta.  She has a new blister today.  The 3 German ladies in our room are also suffering with blisters and they are having their packs carried.   they are all trying the salt and vinegar treatment recommended here.

I have decided to have my large pack  carried tomorrow...it's a short day but very steep hill  and they're predicting rain .  Plus I need a day off from The backpack.

Today's journey was 11.96 miles making a total of 81.55 miles to date.  It took me 7 hours to complete including two stops.  When I went without water I consumed 1 bottle of juice and 1 whole bottle of water  plus purchased a second one to take with from the first vending machine I found.

When I arrived here it took me a while to find it and I was very tired.   Lots of people helped me b with directions.  So glad I was not going on to Estella as many were. 

This place...that I booked last night by telephone is wonderful.   12 euros but no bunk beds.  And a real dinner for 13 euros.  Very nice and she helped me book a room for tomorrow in Azqueta which is 1.9 km short of my scheduled place but that's okay.   I have to have a booking to have my bag transported

Thanks for checking in today...buen camino


 

DAY SEVEN ON THE CAMINO

Walkways are more dirt and gravel and sometimes very large stones.  Sometimes near villages they have paved them because they use them for their own use I think.  Overall not bad but the downhill today would have been a dangerous one in the rain.  15% grade  (my guess) and many large stones and ruts.  It took me 2 hours to do those first 2 miles....up and then the long downhill.   Love my walking sticks for added balance....but I still walked very slowly.   And you know me...I stopped frequently for photos.  I was alone most of the day but frequently people passed me.  I took one lady's photo .and then she took mine near the top of the mountain.  Loved the sunflowers but they are defiantly going to seed.  This was right after I watched the sun rise.  Turned into a very warm day.

Link to Picasaweb album:  
https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/DaySevenOnTheCamino20?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Near the top I was right under the big wind machines and could hear and feel their energy.  And that's also where I found the wrought iron figures of the ancient pilgrims...Glad the wild wind wasn't blowing today.

Once I reached the bottom of the hill I found myself in farmland.  Saw my first  Vinyard and picked a grape...rather sower.  Many field with corn six feet tall or more....made me think of Indiana.

I walked through three small villages today...stopping to visit in the two churches that were open.  Along the way I met an English couple walking with their two daughters, probably 10 and 12 years old.  I also saw another woman camping with children and a donkey .

My pack was getting heavy so I stopped a couple of times to rest on park benches in the villages.  One enterprising boy had a lemonade stand with chairs to sit on in his open garage. 

I reached my goal today  arriving at  1:30 pm. ..Puente La Reina.  8.84 miles by my Map my Walk ....6 hours.  The first albergue was already full  but she called another one and they had room.  Very clean and new...20 people in the room but I'm up against a wall on a bottom  bunk.

Showered and settled in then walked to the beautiful church and then to the ancient bridge that we'll walk across tomorrow as we leave town.  I wanted to get some photos in the sunlight .

I do have some English tonight...a couple from Holland who are riding bicycles and camping.  But decided to stay in an albergue tonight.

I have to wait until 7pm for my pilgrim's meal...okay as the price is great.  10 euro for the bed and 10 euro for dinner including wine. Then it's off to bed. Buen Camino

A DAY SIX ON THE CAMINO

I've just finished reading all of the wonderful comments...thank you one and all.  Typing with my thumbs is quite a job so it's good to know you're enjoying the journey.  More tomorrow but just wanted to thank all of you. 
Below is my entry on Wed Aug 19th:

Link for the Picasa Web Album:  
https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/DaySixOnTheCamino19?authuser=0&feat=directlink

The language is a problem...I  can understand some french but very little spanish.  Many people do speak English so that helps but they will generally only do so when I approached them. But sign language helps and so far I've been able to get a bed and food every night.  Sometimes I miss sharing the joy of the camino but then someone comes along and I have a new friend.  Must admit it would be harder if I didn't have wonderful cell service with T-Mobile which allows me to be in almost constant contact with family.  It's truly amazing.

Last night was the biggest dorm I've ever slept in but with earplugs and a gentle sleeping pill I had one of my best nights sleep.  Everyone began to stir early and since I decided not to pay 3 euros for toast and juice.. I and most everyone was out the door in the dark but the street lights made it seem like daylight.  We had about a two mile walk to get out of the city.  The sun came up just as we entered the countryside.  It was lovely.  The next five hours was a gentle climb steadily upwards.  Many stopped at Cizur Menor for breakfast but I continued to walk eating my power bars from the store.  Soon I was seeing many of my new friends again as they.caught up with me.

Our jouney today was 7 miles of beautiful countrside.  We passed a field of sunflowers...they were getting old and their faces were hanging down.  I so wanted to go stand in the middle of them but the ditch between us made the decision .  When we reach Zariquiequi I stopped at Albergue San Andres and booked a bed and breakfast for 10 euros.  The pilgrims dinner will be an extra 10 euros including wine.  I used the washer and dryer for 5 Euros after my shower and now have clean hair and all clean clothes. 

One of the fun things was greeting several friends that I haven't seen for several days..the New Zealanders from Orisson, Thomas and Marianne from Viskarret and from Larrasoana the 4 french  ladies and several others. 

Tonight I'm in a room with eight bunks...mostly ladies...but I've not heard a word of English. Dinner should be interesting. ...all are napping right now and it's  3 30 pm. ..
That's it for now....thanks for tuning in and sharing my camino...buen camino

DAY FIVE ON THE CAMINO

Have defiantly decided to stop trying to post photos on this blog...but am putting many on Facebook and one a day on instagram.  It was a shorter walk than I expected.  Probably because it was less hilly.  The last few miles was through a large city...the route was well marked.  



Now that I'm home...I'm adding my photos....here is the Link to Picasa Web Album:
https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/DayFiveOnTheCamino18?authuser=0&feat=directlink

I arrived at the albergue before 1 pm and by 4 pm they were full for the night. ..all 140 beds.  But the price is right at 8 euros for a bed..including clean sheet and pillow case...no blanket so you need one or a sleeping bag.  Bathrooms and showers are unisex....
For 3 euros you can get coffee and a piece of bread in the morning but I'll wait and get something on the trail.

Last night was shall we say interesting.  I seem to be the only English speaker.  At dinner. ..a very good one for 10 euro...including wine and dessert.  I sat with Rolf from Germany who only spoke his language and 4 french women...friends doing a week every year together.   One spoke German and English so we kept her pretty busy.  Two others spoke limited English. ..so it was pretty quiet.  My roommates were two young Romanian girls who spoke good English but preferred to talk with the young Italian who is above my bed tonight. ..too funny. And he speaks beautiful English.    I discovered on the trail today that the German also speaks limited English.  His son works in washington DC  and he and his wife will be visiting him this fall.

Bottom line after two quiet day...I had lots of opportunities today to talk to many people. 
Buen Camino

DAY FOUR ON CAMINO

It was a it was a beautiful day of sunshine but not too hot.   I walked many miles by myself. It was very pleasant and I used my phone to say the rosary as I walked. Lots of bicycles on the trail and they are sometimes very fast.

The paths today were beautiful but very rocky....could have been very slippery in the rain .  I am at a beautiful albergue tonight in Larrasoana called albergue San nicolas.  Recommended by my host last night.  I did 10 miles today in 6.5 hours.  Tomorrow I will walk to Pamplona which is another mile longer than today.


Link to Picasa Web Album:   https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/DayFourOnCamino17?authuser=0&feat=directlink

I saw a lady with 3 small children and a donkey camping near the river in zubiri.  My host last night said she knocked on their door looking for a place to stay the previous night.

Arrived here about 2:30 pm...6.5 hours of walking 10 miles.

Now I've showered and the laundry is done.  I've had a beer and am enjoying the good wifi...tomorrow pamplona. .buen camino

My Basque Farmer

Monika and Martha at the beginning

FIRST DAY ON THE CAMINO

This is late as the previous post did not send..probably because of photos.

A link to the photos for this day in Picasa:   https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/FirstDayOnTheCamino1314?authuser=0&feat=directlink

On the first day of walking I waited until 10 o'clock for my walking partner to arrive.  Her name is Monika and she is from Sweden.... but Hungarian heritage.  Much younger than me but because of tendinitis need to walk slowly for the first few days.  We connected on the Santiago forum.

This was a short five miles but about 12% grade so it took us about four hours.  Very pastoral countryside with great Vistas along the Way.  We got rain...light..part way up but the clouds stayed low and the views were spectacular when we arrived.  I really enjoy Monika but know we'll probably only walk together the first couple of days.  Buen Camino

THIRD DAY OF THE CAMINO

I'm posting two blogs today so not sure how they will enter as they will have the same date.  But the first one posted immediately without going to the bar!  Yeah...no photos makes a huge difference.  Leslie....I really didn't have any jetlag....amazing.

Link to Picasa web album:  https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/ThirdDayOfTheCamino16?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Today I  was up early and for the first time walking primarily by myself.  Different terrains .... many miles in forests and sometimes on roads as I passed through villages.  Sometimes I didn't see anyone for ten minutes or less but over the four hours there had to be at least one hundred pilgrims who passed me walking or on bicycles.  I've only seen one on a horse.

I stopped twice at bars to use the bano (toilet) and always purchase something from them but moved on quickly.  There was a lovely old Basque farmer who was stopping all the pilgrims....giving them kisses and then offered to have his photograph taken with you.  I have  great selfie that I'll try to share.

The weather has been warm and sunny all day.  First day for sunscreen.  Early this morning it was  cool and I thought of the gloves I left at home when trying to lighten my pack.  But soon the sun warmed everyone and the jackets came off. 

The last couple of miles was up and down on a broad  concrete path that had been stamped to appear as flagstone...I soon recognized the repeat patterns.  It was at least two miles long. 

I arrived in Viskarret about noon.  Checked in to the same Pension where I stayed the first night.  Purchased some food for my walk tomorrow at the local store here in the village.  Unpacked before washing my hair and have been enjoying meeting more new people.  A young British man and his girlfriend and the fresh off the airplane from Georgia lady who starts tomorrow  on her  camino.  I've shared with her what I've learned as she is staying at all the same places. 

So until the next chapter. ...buen camino

SECOND DAY ON THE CAMINO

Finding good wifi is very difficult so sending photos is very hard.  I've decided to just journal and add special blogs with photos from multiple days when I find strong wifi.  I'm lucky that texting is fabulous 99 % of the time and map my walk has been working well.



Link to photos in Picasa:  https://picasaweb.google.com/117895434014273629374/SecondDayOnTheCamino15?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Our second day began with clear skies and beautiful pastoral scenes as we continued our camino. They say that these two days will be the toughest of the entire camino!

Far below we could see the clouds....they were slowly moving up the hill.  Those that started out later had rain on their way up.  We still had beautiful weather most of the day.   There was a food cart on one hilltop and we purchased hard cheese and fruit to eat for lunch along the way.  We are surrounded by free roaming cows, horses, goats and sheep.  It's very green everywhere and the animals are natural lawnmowers.

The huge statue of the Virgin Mary on the crest of one hill is beautiful.  Many other memorials dot the landscape alone the way.  Some are for people who have died on the camino.  Others are commerating ancient events. 

We passed the French / Spanish  boarder.  There is a large fountain and a grill (to contain the animals)...that you walk across....is the only sign that you have crossed into another country. Within a few miles we found a structure for people who need help....for most of us it was where we stopped to use the wifi!

From that point on the descent became very steep.  And, the rain finally caught us.  It poured and the muds got deeper and deeper and extremely slippery.  We did fine until the very end when I landed on my tush twice.  Only my pride got hurt but I was definitely a muddy mess when we arrived.  I literally took my poncho and pack raincover into the shower with me.

We stayed at a huge albergue in Roncevalles and (God bless them) they had a laundry service and for pennies did all of our laundry for us.  We had four bunks to a cubical ... very new .. I had 3 men...Two snored....and a man on the other side of of the very thin wall also snored so it was definitely an ear plug night.

But I'm getting ahead of myself....prior to dinner I went to the church for Mass....it was standing room only...and at the end of the service all of the pilgrims were invited to the front and a special blessing was said for our safe journey.

I'll  close this now and walk over to the local bar to see it I can send it using there wifi....buen Camino.

SPENDING THE DAY IN ST JEAN PDP

Enjoying a day in St Jean before I start tomorrow.  Purchased new poles and have been practicing with them as I explore this lovely and very old town.
I'm meeting lots of people.  Just swapped stories with 3 young men from Germany and another one from Isreal.   I broke into their conversation with the comment that I'd been to all of their cities....soon they were all asking me queations.  Actually the intro entrance was when they asked the Jewish boy why he is walking the camino....he stumbled and I said...actually only about 40% walk for religious reasons.
I spent the morning and ate lunch with Sharon from Tasmania who I discovered is also staying at the same house as I am tonight.  Buen camino